28m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the flake to ledges then follow the shallow groove above (small gear) until it becomes necessary to swing onto the exposed left arete. Care is required with the grassy finish. © Rockfax

FA. Geoff Birtles 1975.

Ticklists

Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age , Millstone Starred Routes HVS - E5 , Eastern Grit E1s

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User Date Notes
kfsand 13 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The crux move seems close to the midway ledge, couldn\'t find an great gear to protect it other than a dubious wire behind a hollow flake
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βeta: The crux move seems close to the midway ledge, couldn't find an great gear to protect it other than a dubious wire behind a hollow flake
steveb2006 21 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: A very good route that deserves more ascents. The misleading wording in the BMC guidebook wording probably puts people off 'Protection for the groove is not fantastic'. In fact there is a bomber wire here (not a micro). Cleaner than it looks too.
βeta?
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βeta: A very good route that deserves more ascents. The misleading wording in the BMC guidebook wording probably puts people off 'Protection for the groove is not fantastic'. In fact there is a bomber wire here (not a micro). Cleaner than it looks too.
shamonster 19 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: A lot better and cleaner than it looked
βeta?
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βeta: A lot better and cleaner than it looked
Neil McA 15 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Very good, safe enough but with a committing feel in places. Finish left at the top.
βeta?
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βeta: Very good, safe enough but with a committing feel in places. Finish left at the top.
Andy Peak 1 18 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: A very good route if your going well at the grade and fancy a challenge.
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βeta: A very good route if your going well at the grade and fancy a challenge.
BruceW 17 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Definitely not HVS and a real frightner with lots of grass pulling at the top. Not a route I would recommend to anyone.
βeta?
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βeta: Definitely not HVS and a real frightner with lots of grass pulling at the top. Not a route I would recommend to anyone.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Millstone Edge

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 17
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 16
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Millwheel Wall

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Burbage South Quarries)

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