Rockfax Description
The wide, twisting crack is easier than it looks if you enjoy fat fist-jamming. Pull over the roof and sprint up the tricky crusty layback to finish. © Rockfax
FAA. Ted Howard early 1960s.
Ticklists
Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Millstone HVS's , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Millstone * HVS In a day , 'The Quarrymen' Big Wall Training Route - Yosemite 5.9 *** , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Michelle's crack ticklist , Millstone Edge , I’ve climbed a thousand VDiffs but I wanna be a HVS climber , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Millstone Starred Routes HVS - E5
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Carl | 27 May, 2023 |
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βeta: Birds of some sort nesting up there, had to do some prompt down aiding to leave them in peace! Probably avoid for now. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Birds of some sort nesting up there, had to do some prompt down aiding to leave them in peace! Probably avoid for now. |
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| PaulJepson | 20 May, 2023 |
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βeta: Jackdaws nesting on route- they're deep in there but noisy bois. There is also a big loose block at the top, only held in by mud. Go steady! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Jackdaws nesting on route- they're deep in there but noisy bois. There is also a big loose block at the top, only held in by mud. Go steady! |
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| James McNaught | 11 Sep, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: First half i.e. the crack was a Bit of a scrap, but I'm still mastering the art of crack climbing. Sat at the niche to contemplate the view and pull myself together. The brief layback is lovely but over all too quickly. Fun route. Not much in the way of anchor points at the top. Advise long ropes and using the fence posts as anchor points... approx 15m from edge of route. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: First half i.e. the crack was a Bit of a scrap, but I'm still mastering the art of crack climbing. Sat at the niche to contemplate the view and pull myself together. The brief layback is lovely but over all too quickly. Fun route. Not much in the way of anchor points at the top. Advise long ropes and using the fence posts as anchor points... approx 15m from edge of route. |
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| Fakey Rocks | 16 Aug, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: After the chockstone thread, BD big silver grey cam can be progressively slid up the crack (seemed a good fit in most places) from half way standing precariously on the left + right foot in crack,. Only did one or 2 fist jams, more of a layback to end the wide crack. It's not over there though, 2nd half is also fun. Awesome route. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: After the chockstone thread, BD big silver grey cam can be progressively slid up the crack (seemed a good fit in most places) from half way standing precariously on the left + right foot in crack,. Only did one or 2 fist jams, more of a layback to end the wide crack. It's not over there though, 2nd half is also fun. Awesome route. |
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| JDDD | 18 Sep, 2006 |
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βeta: In reply to Simon Lee: I know what you mean. I borrowed a large hex and you can get a nut on the left of the big crack. Awsome route and gives you a real sense of achievement. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: In reply to Simon Lee: I know what you mean. I borrowed a large hex and you can get a nut on the left of the big crack. Awsome route and gives you a real sense of achievement. |
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| UKB Shark | 2 Sep, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Too wide for my fists & difficult to protect | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Too wide for my fists & difficult to protect |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Millstone Edge
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Plexity
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Millstone Edge)