Rockfax Description
A popular test-piece. Difficulties escalate to a hard final move - easier after a quick rest on the rope! The sandy roof above the cave gives a gripping struggle passing an ancient bong peg. The bottom section is often done on its own being hard but safe, though the belay spikes in the cave have now gone. © Rockfax
FAA. Peter Biven 1956. FFA. Steve Bancroft, John Allen 1976.
Ticklists
Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , London Wall Training List , Monopoly , The Millstone 'Streets' , World Graded List , 50 cracks to Squamish , Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age , James' Winter Grit ticklist , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Bugs training , Before I die , John Allen (gritstone) megamix , Peak E5 roundup , The Peg-Pocketeer , 50 E5s at 50 , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Millstone Starred Routes HVS - E5
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ksjs | 14 Aug, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: i did this as the E3 6a version: my first Millstone 6a effort and it felt difficult (ie a bigger gap between 5c and 6a than i had expected). i found the moves to reach the upper part of the crack sequence dependent and reachy without much for your feet (maybe i just dont use my feet well enough?). great gear throughout and impossible to clip the peg but you dont really need it (having it pre-threaded would though make things feel more relaxed). good moves and a great finish. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: i did this as the E3 6a version: my first Millstone 6a effort and it felt difficult (ie a bigger gap between 5c and 6a than i had expected). i found the moves to reach the upper part of the crack sequence dependent and reachy without much for your feet (maybe i just dont use my feet well enough?). great gear throughout and impossible to clip the peg but you dont really need it (having it pre-threaded would though make things feel more relaxed). good moves and a great finish. |
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| Adrian Berry | 16 Jul, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Note: the peg on the first pich no longer has any cord to clip - making it impossible to clip unless you thread a wire through it - the first half is worth E4 in its own right in its current state. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Note: the peg on the first pich no longer has any cord to clip - making it impossible to clip unless you thread a wire through it - the first half is worth E4 in its own right in its current state. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Millstone Edge
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Jermyn Street
Grade: E5 6a ***
(Millstone Edge)