Rockfax Description
Starting from the ledge, the upper arete is gained from the right. Pleasant though poorly protected and featuring a huge chipped hold. The direct start up the groove to the left of February Fox is an overgrown 6b. © Rockfax
FA. Alan Clarke early 1960s.
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User | Date | Notes | ||
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Dave LJ | 9 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Not as poorly protected as suggested. You can get wires in at crack as you start, then a third up the arete a rock in the hooky break, hung with heavy gear to ensure it takes a fall the right way, 2 microwires in the thin crack above that on the left wall, which protects the rockover on the arete which looks a lot harder than it is. Another wire in the crack on teh left before the top. Nice continuation to Mayday. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Not as poorly protected as suggested. You can get wires in at crack as you start, then a third up the arete a rock in the hooky break, hung with heavy gear to ensure it takes a fall the right way, 2 microwires in the thin crack above that on the left wall, which protects the rockover on the arete which looks a lot harder than it is. Another wire in the crack on teh left before the top. Nice continuation to Mayday. |
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GrahamD | 12 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: My first ever 'HVS'. Its really a run out VS, though, with good rests all the way. | βeta? | |
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βeta: My first ever 'HVS'. Its really a run out VS, though, with good rests all the way. |
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Ropeboy | 16 May, 2005 |
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βeta: A one move wonder but a nice one. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A one move wonder but a nice one. |
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Chris the Tall | 15 Apr, 2003 |
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βeta: If you're tall or just very agile, you can do the crux via an exilarating heel hook round the arete! A direct start up the wall 4ft to the left of March Hare is excellant but scary E1 5b | βeta? | |
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βeta: If you're tall or just very agile, you can do the crux via an exilarating heel hook round the arete! A direct start up the wall 4ft to the left of March Hare is excellant but scary E1 5b |
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Millstone Edge)