35m.

Rockfax Description
Start on a small bushy ledge, 7m up and left of a small tree at the base of the crag. Climb a shallow groove-system to a small triangular overhang at 8m. Move up its right-hand side to a peg and then traverse right to reach two pegs. Climb up on poor rock to below an overhang and finish up the face on its right past a peg. © Rockfax

Ticklists

South Devon Stars: Diff - HVS , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200.

Feedback

User Date Notes
C Witter 11 Oct, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Pegs are quite dodgy, but all can be backed up with other gear and when they go they shouldn't need replacing.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pegs are quite dodgy, but all can be backed up with other gear and when they go they shouldn't need replacing.
EcoClimber 29 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Median is one of the best routes on the whole crag. We did a (new?) link up between Third Time Lucy (TTL) & Median. Lead TTL up to ~2m below the traverse ( traverse would be on Median Lucy). I kept climbing straight up & came to the old rusty peg that is next to start of traverse. From here I tried to follow the thin flaky diagonal holds going right to a double pair of rusty pegs. But I backed off a bit & went 2m lower & gained the pegs & then followed Median to the top. Maybe first time this link up has been recorded. Seb seconded & did the overhang to the left side of Median. I stuck to Median up the top face, rather then fighting up the overhang.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Median is one of the best routes on the whole crag. We did a (new?) link up between Third Time Lucy (TTL) & Median. Lead TTL up to ~2m below the traverse ( traverse would be on Median Lucy). I kept climbing straight up & came to the old rusty peg that is next to start of traverse. From here I tried to follow the thin flaky diagonal holds going right to a double pair of rusty pegs. But I backed off a bit & went 2m lower & gained the pegs & then followed Median to the top. Maybe first time this link up has been recorded. Seb seconded & did the overhang to the left side of Median. I stuck to Median up the top face, rather then fighting up the overhang.

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Guidebooks for Meadfoot Quarry

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 43
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 36
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
American Beauty

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Lundy)

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