UKH Hills - 'Zoolook'

Restricted Access

Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents

Stick to public rights of way - don't take short cuts though fields below the Cove as these are not Open Acces land
Always use the public toilet block next to the pub instead of the bushes
Follow the bolting agreement - no bolting at weekends, during the school summer holiday or whilst the nesting restriction is in effect to ensure noise doesn't disturb nesting birds or detract from other visitors experience
No wild camping near the Cove or nearby fields, or sleeping in vehicles in the village or parking areas - use the campsite at Riverdale or Goredale instead
Parking is a very sensitive issue - only park in the locations listed in the parking section below
Make use of local business (pubs/cafes/restaurants etc) after a day at the crag and help to put money back into the local economy

By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.

Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 September

Reason: Nesting Birds

Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2023 has been lifted (as of 23rd May) due to nest failure.

Peregrine restriction: Malham is an important and very visible site for nesting peregrines. The restriction when in force applies to all the routes on the Terrace Wall and the Carnage Area of the Right Wing from 1st March-31st July. However, the routes to the right of Scorpio (which starts as for Carnage Left Hand) are unrestricted.

The bolted sport routes on the right side of Upper Central Wall are unaffected except for those that breach the main overhang. On-site notices will also be in place and RSPB volunteers will monitor the birds throughout the nesting period.

House martins also frequently nest between May-September, often on the popular hard sport routes (frequently affecting Raindogs, Seventh Aardvark, Bat Route and others). Please avoid any routes with nests on or near to avoid damaging the nests, until the young have fledged. It will be obvious which nests are being used due to parents flying in and out. Whilst routes can be climbed once the young have fledged, they can return to the nest site to roost, so be careful not to damage the nests.

Last update: 23/05/2023

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22m.

Rockfax Description
Malham's first 8a. A famous and magnificent climb which starts below a chunky flake. Gaining the flake is tricky, however the sustained upper wall provides most of the difficulties with fingery moves on side-pulls, with always the nagging question as to whether to clip the crucial bolt or push on and risk the mega-lob. There is an infamous rest at half-height. © Rockfax

FA. Ron Fawcett 1985. Malham's first 8a and also one of the first in the UK. A magnificent effort which has stood the test of time. "Nearly 8a+" Steve McClure - OTE 2003..

Ticklists

THE classic old skool 8a's , Yorkshire Limestone Graded List , UK 8a and up , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Classic Lobs , Yorkshire Limestone top 50

Feedback Always Hide βeta

User	Date		Notes
John Cooke	16 Apr, 2007	Show βeta βeta: A long quickdraw on the tricky bolt makes clipping easier (it isn't that bad anyway!). It also reduces rope drag at the top of the route, which is noticable if you don't do this. All in all, a route of exeptional quality and one which is definately stiff for the grade. With what is predominantly a fitness orientated route, this alone wont get you up it. You have to pull pretty hard too! The "infamous" rest refers to the first ascentionist wearing a helmet to wedge his head into the cave in order to gain a hands off rest. The story goes that the second ascentionist managed a hands off rest also, but without the helmet! I unfortunately found no such rest and instead opted for the standard arm alternating!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: A long quickdraw on the tricky bolt makes clipping easier (it isn't that bad anyway!). It also reduces rope drag at the top of the route, which is noticable if you don't do this. All in all, a route of exeptional quality and one which is definately stiff for the grade. With what is predominantly a fitness orientated route, this alone wont get you up it. You have to pull pretty hard too! The "infamous" rest refers to the first ascentionist wearing a helmet to wedge his head into the cave in order to gain a hands off rest. The story goes that the second ascentionist managed a hands off rest also, but without the helmet! I unfortunately found no such rest and instead opted for the standard arm alternating!