Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents
By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.
Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube
Dates: 1 March to 30 September
Reason: Nesting Birds
Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2023 has been lifted (as of 23rd May) due to nest failure.
Peregrine restriction: Malham is an important and very visible site for nesting peregrines. The restriction when in force applies to all the routes on the Terrace Wall and the Carnage Area of the Right Wing from 1st March-31st July. However, the routes to the right of Scorpio (which starts as for Carnage Left Hand) are unrestricted.
The bolted sport routes on the right side of Upper Central Wall are unaffected except for those that breach the main overhang. On-site notices will also be in place and RSPB volunteers will monitor the birds throughout the nesting period.
House martins also frequently nest between May-September, often on the popular hard sport routes (frequently affecting Raindogs, Seventh Aardvark, Bat Route and others). Please avoid any routes with nests on or near to avoid damaging the nests, until the young have fledged. It will be obvious which nests are being used due to parents flying in and out. Whilst routes can be climbed once the young have fledged, they can return to the nest site to roost, so be careful not to damage the nests.
Rockfax Description
An historically significant classic of great difficulty. The climbing is extremely sustained and technical with only the odd poor shake-out. Originally the route finished at the halfway ledge, subsequent ascents have ended at the rest out on the right above the redpoint crux. There is a link-up into Predator at 8b+ named Cry Baby that takes the undercuts left to the finish of Predator. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The free ascent of the old aid route "Controversey"
FA. Mark Leach 1988. A superb ascent after many day's of effort to produce a route as hard as any in the World at the time..
A lifetimes worth of inspiration , UK 8a and up , Yorkshire Limestone top 50 , Power of Climbing , Sport life
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
maxrose | 1 Jun, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: House martins are nesting in the knee bar at the top. There are two permadraws which allow an early-lower off before arriving at the nest (in the corner before the final boulder) | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: House martins are nesting in the knee bar at the top. There are two permadraws which allow an early-lower off before arriving at the nest (in the corner before the final boulder) |
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Grade: 8c ***
(Malham Cove)