Crag features

A large stretch of rock, just below the headland consisting of a few excellent bays and a large amount of choss. However, the bays of good rock are excellent, and provide a number of impressive features in an exposed location.

PEX WALL

This is a surprisingly ultra-high quality wall, with a good collection of highball routes/solos. It is best approached by following the track that breaks off the bend in the road and following it for 2 fields to the edge of the cliff. Continue right, down a little dip and past a wind-swept hawthorn tree. The crag is just here and takes about 10 mins to walk to from the bend.

Moves are generally extremely beta-dependent and exquisite. Despite the regular patterning of the wall, the moves are varied in style and sequences can be pretty sustained. The home of strong fingers, body position and footwork. The holds will likely need a brush prior to an ascent.

There are three stakes in-situ which cover all the routes on Pex Wall.