36m, 2 pitches. The easiest way up the Devil’s Chimney and an enjoyable excursion at the grade. Start
by scrambling onto the big flat ledge on the landward side of the chimney (accessible at
most states of the tide).
1 18m 4 Climb diagonally leftwards on a series of small shelves to gain the arête.
Continue easily to the large halfway ledge.
2 18m 4c Start up the crack in the middle of the face (The Devils’ Chimney route), but
where it steepens move right on sloping footholds to reach the stepped arête. Climb this
to join the easier upper crack of The Devil’s Chimney route

P Littlejohn, T Jepson 28/Aug/2017.

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Route of Interest
Shamrock

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Lundy)

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