Restricted Access

The climbing on Stair Hole, Dungy Head and Durdle Door all fall within an area of land mapped as Open Access under CRoW. Climbing is a permitted activity under the CRoW legislation so there is a legal right of access to all three areas for climbers, walkers and members of the public.

A climbers code of conduct has been developed to help address concerns about conflict between climbers, members of the public and nesting birds - please follow the guidelines closely. Please take a discrete approach to climbing in the area which periodically attracts negative attention through tombstoning and the resulting injuries and rescues. Climbing and DWS are clearly different and permitted here, but can be caught up in media stories about tombstoning, so make an effort to keep a low profile so as not to encourage members of the public to have a go.

For safety reasons, there is no public access to the military ranges east of Lulworth Cove (which are used for live firing), other than on days when the ranges are open due to firing not taking place and even then only the marked path can be used. This means that no climbing can be accessed within the ranges at any time as it would necessitate walking off of the marked path.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Protected birds have been known to nest on crags in the area (in particular Dungy Head) in the past. Please observe any on site signage regarding restrictions if the birds do return.
15m.

Rockfax Description
Very powerful and graded for those with a big reach. Start up Monolith Monsters. Step right under the roof and make hard moves to cross the lip. Step right at the lip to finish on the difficult rockover of Shining Path. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley Apr/2001.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Rob Kennard 15 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I don't think the long reach is necessary( I have short arms!), but the first few moves out of the roof are best done 'dead-hanging' style in an amazing position!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I don't think the long reach is necessary( I have short arms!), but the first few moves out of the roof are best done 'dead-hanging' style in an amazing position!

Logged Ascents

1 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Lulworth

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
Route of Interest
Total Seizure

Grade: 7c ***
(The Promenade)

Loading Notifications...