Rockfax Description
Another quality climb that takes on one of the blankest looking sections of wall on the face and has a particularly hard sequence at mid-height in a runout situation. Start at the base of a left-trending crack as for Coronary Country. Climb up the wall directly above the base of the diagonal crack to a break at 10m. Above the break is a discontinuous series of thin cracks and seams. Climb these - low gear - to a crux sequence to just below the next prominent diagonal break. Follow the steep wall above to the top, easier but serious. © Rockfax
FA. Mark Edwards 1989.
Great Wall Climbs of the UK , West Country Climbs , Rockfax West Country top 50 , Culm Coast Dagger Attack , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , South West in Extremis
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Grade: E8 7a ***
(Boscawen Point)