UKC

Climbs 71
Rocktype Trachyte
Altitude 248m a.s.l
Faces S

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Neil On The Edge © Sean Bell

Crag features

A magnificent landmark towering over the valley with three good faces of climbing (and one not so good) and several three star routes. 

The crags circle the top of the hill on the south side high up above the river and feel very exposed due to the steep drop-off.

There is a good mix of routes at different grades with some really nice aretes and crack climbs.

Photo topos for each route are in progress.

Approach notes

Update 27/03/22;

A tree has come down next to pulpit rock, it doesn't get in the way of the climbs but makes the approach slightly harder.

Good car parking at Loudon Hill parking. Crag is about 400m across a small stream. Don't worry that the face you can see doesn't look promising - it's the worst of all the sectors. Head down the path to the wooden bridge then start climbing up along the track running along the south of the hill. At the first big bend double-back slightly and head up through a gap in the stone wall and up a steep track heading east towards the trees near the ridgeline.

The approach leads round to the east under the East face and past the central face and then heads steeply uphill towards the trees where the West Face, Amphitheatre and Pulpit Rock sectors can be found after some steep scrambling.

There is limited flat ground at the base of the crags and care should be taken when moving between sectors. 

Not a good place for dogs or small children to be left unattended.

Restricted Access

Avoid climbing in areas around nesting birds if they are present.

Had to leave a green totem cam half way up Pulpit Crack due to unfortunate circumstances. A return would be appriciated if anyone grabs it.
IainHouston - 06/May/23
Wildfire has left the crag a bit charred. This meant traverse to the edge was really scary with unconsolidated wet mud! Will improve with new growth in summer but not going to get better this winter. Dees crack access fine.
Robertgiddy - 12/Sep/18
Please be aware that at Peregrine was on a nest between The Belk and Cave Crack (on Rocking Stone Groove?) on 10 May 2016.
rpw - 11/May/16
Someone has scratched "XS" and an arrow pointing up to the right of pulpit crack. A route not mentioned in the guide book? And also WTF!?
Stevie989 - 22/Jul/14
Unfortunately the Ravens nest has fallen from it's ledge, probably due to heavy rain. There seems no sign of them atempting to rebuild it. The climbing restrictions should probably be lifted? Any thoughts?
maxtwomey - 05/Jun/12
Twitchers told me that the Perigrines haven't nested here for a few years though there is a raven nest on the Belk at mo
Badam - 09/Apr/11
Follow the path to the big Wallace monument and cross the Irvine by the bridge. No more stepping stones.
halfaseesaw - 10/Dec/09
well was my first time at louden hill today and only had breif time to fit in the one climb as i had been skiing all day at newmilns ski slope(anyway) done the edge and amn what can you say its awsome even seconding on it got to get back there soon!
georgespeirs - 10/Apr/07
Pulpit Crack is a fine climb ***, but the Edge really is amazing, I haven't seen anything in the UK like it, so yes, I agreee with Kinley.
jonnie3430 - 22/Dec/06
Err, it's good but if you think they are two of the best VS's in the UK then you need to travel a bit more!
Dave Kerr - 13/Oct/06
Massively underrated crag. Two of the best VS in the UK (Pulpit crack and The Flake), great views, superb location and a good pub.
Kinley - 26/Jun/05
Some nice mid grade climbs, perfect for a lazy summer afternoon. Foxglove chimney and strife are both particular favourites.
john - 25/Oct/04
The bird loving cop from Strathaven is an ex-Royal Marine Commando, and Strathclyde Police MRT member, as well as a really nice guy,- so I'd do as he say's if I were you! :-)
Davy Virdee - 06/May/04
Beware of a bird loving cop from Strathaven, who will try and keep you off the hill, whether walking or climbing. According to the MCofS, only a few routes to the sides of the nest should not be climbed on, other than this there is nothing to stop you climbing there.
Iain - 07/Nov/02
At the moment [June 02] a pair of peregrine falcons are nesting on one of the faces of the crag with young chicks. There are also a large amount of \"twitchers\" in the car park with telescopes etc who will try their utmost to discourage you from climbing on that wall. There are plenty of routes still available
stuart - 14/Jun/02
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Climbs at this crag

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