Rockfax Description
The centre of the huge sweep of 'boilerplate' slabs provides some exquisite slab climbing. Start directly beneath the smoothest part of the face, just to the right of a small tree.
1) 5c, 30m. Boulder up past some pink stains to a good peg in a thin diagonal break. Go right to another peg, before climbing leftwards to a shallow niche, then on to a large vegetated break just above. Move right 2m, and climb the wall above a short way, before traversing left, past a peg, to gain a thin, intermittent crack-line. Follow this to a difficult sequence just below the belay ledge. Bolt belay.
2) 5c, 23m. Climb up rightwards from the belay to a ledge, slightly loose. Move up to an undercut flake. Take this leftwards, then follow the steep, fingery wall to another flake crack on the left. Climb more easily to a bolted belay/abseil station. Either move right to the descent path or make a 45m abseil to the ground. © Rockfax
FA. P.Littlejohn 1973.
Best slab climbs of the UK , Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , Ultimate E3 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Moving to Devon , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , Devon and surrounding counties 50 E2 and some E3 and a few E4 and an E5
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Martgib | 5 Oct, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Watch for loose / snappy rock on the hard moves above second belay. The single bolt at the belay should be monitored, as it looks like the rock surface just below has been damaged and the hanger spins. It can be backed up with a good nut behind and left. Important as if the leader were to come off on P2 and the fixed gear were to pull, it could be a big fall onto the belay with a (potentially deteriotating) bolt and rusty peg belay. Could do with a decent two bolt belay in my opinion... | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Watch for loose / snappy rock on the hard moves above second belay. The single bolt at the belay should be monitored, as it looks like the rock surface just below has been damaged and the hanger spins. It can be backed up with a good nut behind and left. Important as if the leader were to come off on P2 and the fixed gear were to pull, it could be a big fall onto the belay with a (potentially deteriotating) bolt and rusty peg belay. Could do with a decent two bolt belay in my opinion... |
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Grade: E3 5c ***
(Telegraph Hole)