Rockfax Description
IV, 850m, 6 - 8 hours. A popular, long route which takes a great line onto a great summit. A good choice for those wanting to test themselves on a long route without committing to one of the routes on the North Face.
1) Cross the bergschrund and climb a short snow slope to an 80 degree ice pitch.
2) Lower angled ice leads to a belay on the right below another steep section.
3) Climb the 85 degree ice on the left and then 100m of 60 degree snow to reach the Lagarde Couloir proper.
4) Follow the couloir for 300m of 50 degree snow. For the final 100m to the top it steepens to around 65 degrees and tackles mixed ground to reach the final snow ridge on the Tournier Spur. Follow this to the summit of Les Droites. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
IV 4+

Walter Cecchinel & Claude Jager.

Ticklists

Alpine Grande Courses , Big Alpine Routes

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High TD
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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Roger Baxter-Jones Directissime

Grade: TD ***
(Mont Maudit)

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