Restricted Access

Quarries 1,2 and 3 are owned by the Wills Estate and no formal agreement for climbing is in place.

Quarries 4 and 5 are owned by the National Trust, climbers are asked to have civil liability insurance when climbing here. 

Nightingale Valley and Burwalls Cave - climbing is not permitted. 

Crossing the railway line or climbing routes on railway land (Railway Tunnel Walls) constitutes criminal trespass - don't do it.

Quarry 4 occasionally sees nesting peregrines, please check the RAD for updates. 

45m, 2 pitches. Graded 6a in guide but 2nd pitch probably deserves 6b. Careful with route finding too, the right way shouldn't be that loose.

A surprisingly amenable and airy escapade with a nicely consistent top pitch. Start at the large lime-green blob of graffiti.
1 25m F6a [6B] Follow Thirty-nine Year War up over its initial bulge to easy ground at the base of a white scoop. Step up and clip the bolt in the narrow borehole then go diagonally right and up onto the broad ledge. Traverse right (as for A Song for the Shadows) to its double 12mm ring belay station.
2 20m F6b [8B] Move up slightly leftwards from the belay onto a projecting resting foot hold and follow the short borehole above to an open resting ledge on the right (all as for A Song for the Shadows). Traverse back left and reach around for a large, hidden layaway then continue straight up to a resting scoop on the right. A short easy section now leads to an exposed final bulge; swing out left under the final bolt with some celebratory trickiness to reach the double 12mm ring abseil station.

Gordon A Jenkin, Brian (Blob) Wyvill 11/May/2015.

Ticklists

Quarry 3 Challenge , All multi-pitch sport routes (England and Wales) , 6Bs with stars near Bristol , Soft touches near Bristol

Feedback

User Date Notes
PaulJepson 27 Mar, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: A toaster-sized jug on p1 is loose. Makes it trickier to not use.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A toaster-sized jug on p1 is loose. Makes it trickier to not use.
harrylusted 13 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Very loose rock up top!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very loose rock up top!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Leigh Woods

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Voting
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 16
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
New Andy Test Add

Grade: 6b ***
(Testing)

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