20m.
Rockfax Description
The thin seam splitting the wall is reached via a steep fingery crack (5c - but easily avoided) and gives pleasantly delicate moves. Protection is reasonable with enough small wires. Belay by the tree stump and finish off upwards more easily. © Rockfax
FA. Peter Biven 1956. FFA. Clive Jones 1976.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Lawrencefield , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Peak District Gritstone: Graham Hoey's Best Routes for Moving on to E2 , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Eastern Grit E1s , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 E1 , E1's
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| joeramsay | 10 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: Don\'t pass any gear - there\'s enough but not more than enough | βeta? | |
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βeta: Don't pass any gear - there's enough but not more than enough |
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| Dohnny_Jawes | 3 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: The loose block that's described in a lot of posts doesn't exist anymore. This has probably made it harder, would say it felt pretty close to E2 and would probably get that grade if a new route but may be I climbed it badly. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The loose block that's described in a lot of posts doesn't exist anymore. This has probably made it harder, would say it felt pretty close to E2 and would probably get that grade if a new route but may be I climbed it badly. |
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| roberto18 | 17 Aug, 2007 |
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βeta: quality route, took a few attempts with combined efforts, also my cousin took a 20 foot fall, the crux is right at the top just before the tree when u r pumped. | βeta? | |
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βeta: quality route, took a few attempts with combined efforts, also my cousin took a 20 foot fall, the crux is right at the top just before the tree when u r pumped. |
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| ksjs | 12 Aug, 2007 |
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βeta: start is more of a boulder problem (borderline 5c). gear is fine, gets better (bomber) as you get higher. loose block isnt really loose and takes gear which would probably help jam the block if you fall. technical crux on the route proper are the moves at the top of the main part of the climb. an excellent route but not grit / Peak E2. | βeta? | |
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βeta: start is more of a boulder problem (borderline 5c). gear is fine, gets better (bomber) as you get higher. loose block isnt really loose and takes gear which would probably help jam the block if you fall. technical crux on the route proper are the moves at the top of the main part of the climb. an excellent route but not grit / Peak E2. |
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| fenclimb | 12 Nov, 2006 |
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βeta: First time ive noticed this is only two stars... its gotta be 3 surely. About where the crux is? who knows its all good technically hard in the lower part then easyer to work out the moves further up but it gets pumpy so feels just as hard as the lower. | βeta? | |
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βeta: First time ive noticed this is only two stars... its gotta be 3 surely. About where the crux is? who knows its all good technically hard in the lower part then easyer to work out the moves further up but it gets pumpy so feels just as hard as the lower. |
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| Michael Simpson | 19 Oct, 2006 |
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βeta: the legendary loose block seems to cam itself in toplace to my mind. the difficulty of this route seems in part to do with the sustained nature of the climbing and in part to holding on whilst placing gear. Certianly hard for E1 | βeta? | |
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βeta: the legendary loose block seems to cam itself in toplace to my mind. the difficulty of this route seems in part to do with the sustained nature of the climbing and in part to holding on whilst placing gear. Certianly hard for E1 |
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| jim jones | 9 Jul, 2006 |
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βeta: I placed two wires behind the "loose" block today & used it move up, seemed well keyed in to me. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I placed two wires behind the "loose" block today & used it move up, seemed well keyed in to me. |
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| JDDD | 17 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: I only seconded this route ages ago. I have since attempted to lead it several times since then, but whimped out at the wobbly block half way up. Is the crux below or above this. Everyone seems to say it is below, but up to the wobbly block is faily straight forward. Have I lost the plot? | βeta? | |
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βeta: I only seconded this route ages ago. I have since attempted to lead it several times since then, but whimped out at the wobbly block half way up. Is the crux below or above this. Everyone seems to say it is below, but up to the wobbly block is faily straight forward. Have I lost the plot? |
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| Si dH | 15 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: Ive only done about 5 E1s but did the start of this ok, it was the loose block that caught me out. Wish Id carried on now but was never going to trust gear behind it to hold a lead fall so put in the best bit I could and gingerly lowered off. One bold move to get to there as well, although when abbing for gear I could see the rest of the route was well-protected once a couple of moves past the block. Moral: dont do this route if like me you hate loose blocks! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Ive only done about 5 E1s but did the start of this ok, it was the loose block that caught me out. Wish Id carried on now but was never going to trust gear behind it to hold a lead fall so put in the best bit I could and gingerly lowered off. One bold move to get to there as well, although when abbing for gear I could see the rest of the route was well-protected once a couple of moves past the block. Moral: dont do this route if like me you hate loose blocks! |
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| Alex Mason | 22 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: i found this easy for E1 but im left handed i didnt notice but markyb says u place it all off ur left so probably better for lefties , the gear is fine by the way i had about 12 bits in | βeta? | |
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βeta: i found this easy for E1 but im left handed i didnt notice but markyb says u place it all off ur left so probably better for lefties , the gear is fine by the way i had about 12 bits in |
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| MNA123 | 10 Jan, 2005 |
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βeta: Where can you get hexes in? | βeta? | |
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βeta: Where can you get hexes in? |
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| Mike Kelly | 12 May, 2004 |
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βeta: Thought the gear was good so E1 should be the grade. It's a good climb because you have to work out the moves and it keeps you on your toes right to the top. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Thought the gear was good so E1 should be the grade. It's a good climb because you have to work out the moves and it keeps you on your toes right to the top. |
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| Justin Shiels | 24 Apr, 2004 |
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βeta: Ei and very protected. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Ei and very protected. |
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| JMarkW | 8 Oct, 2003 |
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βeta: E2, no way. I actually thought this route was very well protected with small wires. The start is by far the hardest part of the climb. | βeta? | |
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βeta: E2, no way. I actually thought this route was very well protected with small wires. The start is by far the hardest part of the climb. |
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| The Pylon King | 3 Apr, 2003 |
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βeta: Good route BUT gear not great+spaced+pumpy to place.this combined with the fairly sustained moves surely makes this route E2 5b with a 5c problem start me thinks. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Good route BUT gear not great+spaced+pumpy to place.this combined with the fairly sustained moves surely makes this route E2 5b with a 5c problem start me thinks. |
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| ChrisJD | 9 Jan, 2003 |
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βeta: Overall I think the gear is poor on this route and could get someone badly in trouble, so would give it E2 for the head games. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Overall I think the gear is poor on this route and could get someone badly in trouble, so would give it E2 for the head games. |
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| Nick Smith - Climbers | 24 Apr, 2002 |
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βeta: The hard starting crack seemed more like 5c to me, with the rest of the route only 5b. Hard E1/soft E2 ? | βeta? | |
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βeta: The hard starting crack seemed more like 5c to me, with the rest of the route only 5b. Hard E1/soft E2 ? |
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| Mountain Lass | 26 Dec, 2001 |
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βeta: Slightly polished and with only two small wires for protection this is still an enjoyable outing. RP's are useful as "Psychological" pro. Watch out fo the ants nest at the top in August! The Climbers Club grade of E2 is definatly more appropriate than E1 due to the lack of quality placements. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Slightly polished and with only two small wires for protection this is still an enjoyable outing. RP's are useful as "Psychological" pro. Watch out fo the ants nest at the top in August! The Climbers Club grade of E2 is definatly more appropriate than E1 due to the lack of quality placements. |
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Route of Interest
Debauchery
Grade: E1 5b ***
(High Tor)