Rockfax Description
The steep angular corner is jammed and bridged to a stance on the Pulpit. Continue up the wide and awkward corner crack above to a tricky but well-protected exit up a short blank groove. © Rockfax
FAA. Harry Hartley 1953.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Northern Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , UK Classic Corners , Top 50 Peak Cracks , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars , To Goliath's Groove and beyond , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Bridging Corners, Grooves, Diedres in the UK , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Lawrencefield , The Gritlist , York University Students path to greatness , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Big trad grit list , Eastern Grit Crack School - Part 1 , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| PaulJepson | 28 Oct, 2021 |
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βeta: A single 55m rope just did it in one pitch and equalised the two stakes. Sadly we were unable to retrieve a big blue offset from the initial section after a lot of trying. Hopefully someone with a bit more nous can get it free. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A single 55m rope just did it in one pitch and equalised the two stakes. Sadly we were unable to retrieve a big blue offset from the initial section after a lot of trying. Hopefully someone with a bit more nous can get it free. |
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| GStone | 23 May, 2021 |
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βeta: There is a raven’s nest with some young chicks in on this route about half way up. Best to avoid at the moment. | βeta? | |
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βeta: There is a raven’s nest with some young chicks in on this route about half way up. Best to avoid at the moment. |
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| GT87 | 20 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Great holds and gear | ||
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βeta: Great holds and gear |
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| EllenHolmes | 12 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Awesome climb! Fell a couple of times seconding on the bottom pitch as found the layback pretty hard, but a fantastic route. Final few moves must feel a bit desperate on lead! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Awesome climb! Fell a couple of times seconding on the bottom pitch as found the layback pretty hard, but a fantastic route. Final few moves must feel a bit desperate on lead! |
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| roberto18 | 5 May, 2007 |
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βeta: Excellent route, its what VS climbing is all about, sustained 4c all the way up, first section laybacking or jam you decide,best to do two pitches for full enjoyment. Top pitch hard to start but gets easier as you move up. 3 star route! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Excellent route, its what VS climbing is all about, sustained 4c all the way up, first section laybacking or jam you decide,best to do two pitches for full enjoyment. Top pitch hard to start but gets easier as you move up. 3 star route! |
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| Crammy | 10 Jul, 2006 |
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βeta: Two very useful belay stakes now in place. Thank you whoever put them there even though one's a bit wobbly. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Two very useful belay stakes now in place. Thank you whoever put them there even though one's a bit wobbly. |
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| Chris the Tall | 11 Dec, 2005 |
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βeta: Hard for the grade and harder than I remember. And I'd wish I'd read the comments about the stake - best to take a belay on the big ledge just below the top | βeta? | |
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βeta: Hard for the grade and harder than I remember. And I'd wish I'd read the comments about the stake - best to take a belay on the big ledge just below the top |
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| wilkie14c | 10 Nov, 2005 |
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βeta: Topend VS without a doubt. sustained but bomber cams (if you have plenty) we found out about the belay the hard way too. Luckly i belayed from the 'pulpit' and so when Dave came up, and then topped out to find no stake, we re-organised so i was on a single 9mm, doubled. and Dave belayed from the fencepost with the other 9mm. Bear this in mind for your climb! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Topend VS without a doubt. sustained but bomber cams (if you have plenty) we found out about the belay the hard way too. Luckly i belayed from the 'pulpit' and so when Dave came up, and then topped out to find no stake, we re-organised so i was on a single 9mm, doubled. and Dave belayed from the fencepost with the other 9mm. Bear this in mind for your climb! |
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| DCR | 2 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: A belay can be set using the solid fence post but you will need extra rope. I had to walk down and borrow another rope as my 50m didn't quite reach! DavidR | βeta? | |
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βeta: A belay can be set using the solid fence post but you will need extra rope. I had to walk down and borrow another rope as my 50m didn't quite reach! DavidR |
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| Si dH | 15 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: The start isnt too abd if you can jam ,the second section is very awkward and pumpy if you hang about, and the top section is quite technical. Top-end VS but no more I think. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The start isnt too abd if you can jam ,the second section is very awkward and pumpy if you hang about, and the top section is quite technical. Top-end VS but no more I think. |
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| MNA123 | 13 Jan, 2005 |
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βeta: This is graded HVS 4c in the old froggat guide,but VS 4C is a lot more appropiate slippy start but good gear and holds all the way to the lovely peg belay at the top. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: This is graded HVS 4c in the old froggat guide,but VS 4C is a lot more appropiate slippy start but good gear and holds all the way to the lovely peg belay at the top. |
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| GrahamD | 4 Oct, 2004 |
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βeta: Can be jammed all the way in damp conditions or bridged in the dry. OK, its long but with rest ledges at regular intervals, nothing any all round VS leader shouldn't be happy to tackle. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Can be jammed all the way in damp conditions or bridged in the dry. OK, its long but with rest ledges at regular intervals, nothing any all round VS leader shouldn't be happy to tackle. |
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| shaun walby | 6 Jun, 2004 |
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βeta: Sustained top end VS, excellant rests bomber gear throughout. initial crack not too hard if you can bridge & jam, the crux for me was the second crack...tricky. Top crack again is tricky but so well protected you just go with the awkward exit. Incase your wondering...led my first HVS5a after this one...not a lot in it | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Sustained top end VS, excellant rests bomber gear throughout. initial crack not too hard if you can bridge & jam, the crux for me was the second crack...tricky. Top crack again is tricky but so well protected you just go with the awkward exit. Incase your wondering...led my first HVS5a after this one...not a lot in it |
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| Simon Caldwell | 29 Sep, 2003 |
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βeta: I found the hardest bit near the bottom, went up and down several times trying to layback it, eventually tried jamming and it worked a treat. The rest seemed easy in comparison. Much as I'd like to claim my first HVS, I'd agree it's solid VS. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I found the hardest bit near the bottom, went up and down several times trying to layback it, eventually tried jamming and it worked a treat. The rest seemed easy in comparison. Much as I'd like to claim my first HVS, I'd agree it's solid VS. |
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| Nick Smith - Climbers | 24 Apr, 2002 |
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βeta: It's much easier to bridge and layback this route, rather than jamming it. Bit hard for VS perhaps, but plenty of good resting positions. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: It's much easier to bridge and layback this route, rather than jamming it. Bit hard for VS perhaps, but plenty of good resting positions. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Lawrencefield
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Lean Man's Superdirect
Grade: VS 5a ***
(Black Rocks)