Rockfax Description
A fabulous route with plenty of interesting pitches in a spectacular situation. It is well above the clutches of the tide during calm and moderate seas. 'Very Difficult' is the traditional grade although we have nudged that up to HVD. Some would not argue with Severe since some pitches are serious for both leader and second. For those confident at the grade, pitches can be easily combined. Start at a wide crack at the base of the first buttress on the right (looking out) of the approach.
1) 16m. Climb the crack and its continuation above a wide break to a large ledge. Belay at its back, below a corner-crack.
2) 4a, 9m. The 'Elbow Crack'. Climb the fine, well-protected corner-crack to a belay next to a tilted block that forms a slab.
3) 15m. Climb the centre of the slab to its top. Drop down, cross a wide gap and move up to belay below a short wall.
4) 6m. Climb the short wall up cracks to a good ledge and belay.
5) 12m. Move right to the base of a wide chimney and bridge up this until it is possible to transfer to the landward wall of the chimney. Climb the wall until a final pull up right gains a belay. © Rockfax

FA. Royal Marines 1946.

Ticklists

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