Rockfax Description
IV, 900m, 8 - 10 hours. Reliably in condition and relatively easy to retreat from, this route is a good choice for those moving into the territory of long, cold TD routes. The climbing is never difficult but the route is long and atmospheric. Climb the Couturier Couloir to above the steep section, the route description begins from here.
1) Follow sustained 55 - 60 degree ice, drifting left and heading directly for the crux gully.
2) Climb the gully in three pitches, passing sections up to 85 degrees. There are no bolts but rock belays are availble on the buttress to the left.
3) Once above the main gully, follow the snow gully diagonally up and rightwards for 100m until you reach the foot of a final icy ramp. From the top of the three pitches in the gully, it is possible to carry on up directly instead of following the gully out rightwards. This direct finish involves slightly trickier climbing than the pitches below it, and possibly some mixed sections in thin conditions.
4) Climb this for 100m (the last 60m kick up to 65 degrees) to reach a col just below the Grande Rocheuse. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start up the Couturier, then climb the first rectilinear gully to the left of the Bourges-Mizrahi, 4 pitches of 70/80 degree ice (sometimes thin). From the top of the gullies, go up the snow slope on the right to exit at the saddle on the E ridge of the Grande Rocheuse. - Taken from "Snow, Ice and Mixed".

Route is not as sustained as this description may indicate. Short sections at 80 degrees, but for the most part is about scottish III. Protection was not readily available on my ascent in the lower gullies. Early start essential so as to have reached the difficulties by sunrise. A recommended route!

Autheman, Dellavolpe, Vimal 05/Feb/1992.

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