Rockfax Description
II, 500m. The most climbed route in this area. It is pretty reliably in condition and makes an excellent little day out.
1) Climb 50 degree snow for 100m and then follow 60 degree mixed ground to a narrow chimney.
2) Head up the chimney (which is superb) to reach a snow slope. Cross it diagonally up and left to a 10m high, steep step split by two gullies.
3) Climb these (80 degree ice) and a steepening ice/snow slope rightwards to a belay to the right of the crux ice section.
4) Step left and climb 15m of 85 degree ice to easier-angled terrain. Follow this for 10m and then climb the narrow, vertical icy runnel above.
5) Continue up 200m of 50 degree snow to reach the ridge. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climb snow slopes for 100m. A 65 degree ice wall on the L. leads to another snow slope followed by a deep, icy chimney (60 degrees). Climb the snow slope above for 50m then steep icy wall on the L. (80/85 degrees, can be thin). Above this is another slope then the crux pitch. Climb iced slabs for 10m to a belay on the right. Traverse L. into a corner and climb a sustained chimney (80 degrees) to more iced slabs and optional belay. From here a short steep gully (90 degrees) leads to easy snow slopes to the top.
Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif , 10 Routes to Climb in Chamonix in Winter , Winter Alps 2023
There is no feedback for this climb.
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: TD- 6a ***
(Aiguilles Rouges)