UKC

Climbs 109
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 17m a.s.l
Faces W

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James working 'Larger Than Life' a long traverse project down at Ladye Bay, Clevedon. © Beastly Squirrel

Crag features

Discontinous line of low cliffs with bouldering and quite a few sports routes.
The rock is a young limestone, much like Portland.
Quite a few of the routes have hard starts and hard finishes with soft climbing in the middle.
Helmets may be a good idea as the rock can be crumbly in places. 
It is tidal - exiting at high tide and could be soggy...
Bolted with staples - they look ok and have held falls!

Bouldering has seen a lot of development by James Squire, Rob Stanfield and Jack Bradbrook. With potential for a few more new problems here and there.

Approach notes

Park on bay road, follow a footpath leftwards and head down a set of narrow stairs towards a pebble beach. The main wall is presented on the left, with the doughnut caves requiring a scramble over rocks to the right.

a word of warning to anyone who isn't keen on creepy-crawlies. Some of the pockets hold clusters of inch long sea woodlouse things, and they drop out on you. I had to spend 20 mins with a stick and a torch, dangling on our rope and extracting them from dark cracks before the rest of the party would deign to go near the routes!
hms - 01/Sep/13
There appears to be roughly two new lines of bolts between "Stick Insect" and "Sloped beyond Imagination". Does anyone have any information on these?
Tom Brierley - 20/Jun/13
FREE ONLINE BOULDERING GUIDE HERE: http://www.beastlysquirrelblog.com/#/ladye-bay/4569514566
Beastly Squirrel - 07/Oct/12
If anyone is after a video of 'Starboard Traverse Extension', 'Seaside Scare', 'Notion' or 'Tactical Nuke' just e-mail me and I'll send you the video!
Beastly Squirrel - 27/Aug/11
Is there any online topo's for the boulder problems on this crag?
joe.91 - 22/Jun/11
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Climbs at this crag

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