UKH Hills - 'Rotund Rooley'

Restricted Access

The BMC has owned part of this popular sport climbing venue since 2005 (routes from Mr Cellulite’s Arete rightwards on the lower tier and from In the Jailhouse rightwards on the upper tier) and BMC land is actively managed for the benefit of climbers, walkers and conservation. Horseshoe varies from good quality, solid rock to significant areas of loose, hollow and blast shattered rock. Visitors should pay close attention at all times in case of loose rock and helmets are highly recommended whilst climbing or belaying.

In 2017, a re-bolting project took place on routes located on BMC owned land at Horseshoe to replace the old bolts and scale loose rock. The project replaced old fixed equipment of various vintage with new stainless steel glue in bolts, rationalised the bolt spacing on sport routes to reduce long runouts and standardised lower offs to double ring lower offs. A new lower off simulator has also been added to the large boulder below The Dust Bunnies on Main Wall to allow new sport climbers to practice re-threading rings before getting on the sharp end

19 routes were unfortunately decommissioned due to unstable or fractured rock which could not be scaled back to a solid state to place new bolts with confidence in their quality and strength. These routes have had their bolts removed and will not be re-equipped – we hope climbers will respect this decision.

Whilst this work has undoubtedly made the crag safer, it has not and cannot make it completely 'safe'. This is still a quarried venue with blast damaged rock, subject to ongoing weathering and undoubtedly loose rock will develop again over time, not to mention all the normal hazards associated with climbing outdoors. It should also be noted that the areas of the quarry not owned by the BMC have not been re-equipped and there will still be old bolts which could be widely varying in age and quality. Whether re-equipped or not, assessing the quality of the bolts and rock they are placed in before and as you climb is still an essential part of the climbing experience at Horseshoe, as it is at any other crag.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

House martins sometimes nest on various routes on Main Wall - please avoid any routes with nests on whilst the birds are in residence.

Last update: 04/03/2024

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20m.

Rockfax Description
An easy start leads to a fine finish up the open scoop with a tiny hold on the crux pull. © Rockfax

FA. Mark Pretty, D.Whaley, Johnny Dawes 1986.

Ticklists

Peak limestone north graded list - sport , Most Popular Peak District Climbs per Grade , The Horseshoe Top 15 Challenge , Horseshoe Star Quality , Peak sport for mortals

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User	Date		Notes
AndyRogers	4 Feb, 2023	Show βeta βeta: Beware the finishing jugs shared with Mutation. The main jug is cracked about 2 or 3 inches from the prow of the incut. Its is wobbling quite a bit. I tried gently to remove it but to no success, however the entire block beneath it which forms part of thd larger rail also moves in place. If these come off they could cause serious damage and given the popularity of the sector injury potential is severe.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Beware the finishing jugs shared with Mutation. The main jug is cracked about 2 or 3 inches from the prow of the incut. Its is wobbling quite a bit. I tried gently to remove it but to no success, however the entire block beneath it which forms part of thd larger rail also moves in place. If these come off they could cause serious damage and given the popularity of the sector injury potential is severe.
DanielGyi	4 Jun, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Ripped off a pretty big hold near the start which might make it slightly harder to clip second bolt. Cleaned all the loose stuff	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Ripped off a pretty big hold near the start which might make it slightly harder to clip second bolt. Cleaned all the loose stuff
roberto18	22 Oct, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Great route, so good I did it twice!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Great route, so good I did it twice!
Christheclimber	15 Jul, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Possibly worth 6b+ (as in BMC guide) since it lost a flake hold.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Possibly worth 6b+ (as in BMC guide) since it lost a flake hold.
Justin Shiels	18 Sep, 2005	Show βeta βeta: Start seemed hard enough and not very pleasant. The rest is excellent and the route has its own belay. Reaching this is easy enough but a little runout.
Show beta βeta: Start seemed hard enough and not very pleasant. The rest is excellent and the route has its own belay. Reaching this is easy enough but a little runout.
Chris the Tall	8 Aug, 2003	Show βeta βeta: You think that's polished - where else have you climbed ? (just kidding !). Agree that a long reach helps on the crux.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: You think that's polished - where else have you climbed ? (just kidding !). Agree that a long reach helps on the crux.