Rockfax Description
One of the original free routes on the cliff, polished and with some spaced gear, but still worthwhile.
1) 4b, 18m. Climb the corner below the left-hand end of the big Castellan roof, taking care with suspect rock. This is also an approach pitch to the cave.
2) 4c, 24m. Climb the crack above, then move right and up to gain the chimney. Finish up this. Be aware of loose blocks on this pitch, a result of some severe winters. © Rockfax
FA. Joe Brown 1957. Climbed during a time when free climbing on limestone was rare..
Ticklists
100 More Classic British VS Climbs , Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , Classic Peak Limestone Trad - VDiff to E2 , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Definitive *** Peak Lime , An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs , The Eal List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| Shaun climbs 92 | 15 Apr |
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βeta: Good route quite commiting | βeta? | |
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βeta: Good route quite commiting |
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| Shaun climbs 92 | 13 Apr |
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βeta: Good route quite commiting | βeta? | |
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βeta: Good route quite commiting |
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| HaleAlex | 2 Jun, 2023 |
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βeta: Two jackdaw nests with chicks in the wide section of crack on the second pitch | βeta? | |
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βeta: Two jackdaw nests with chicks in the wide section of crack on the second pitch |
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| Scottthedog | 22 Jun, 2022 |
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βeta: Climb today but my terrified, incompetent partner left half my rack in top pitch. If anyones been this evening would be very grateful for its return as all has sentimental value. Reward given. Please call 07852520150. If not I’ll be back to rescue in morning. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Climb today but my terrified, incompetent partner left half my rack in top pitch. If anyones been this evening would be very grateful for its return as all has sentimental value. Reward given. Please call 07852520150. If not I’ll be back to rescue in morning. |
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| Green_t | 14 May, 2022 |
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βeta: Jackdaw nest with tiny chicks in as of 14/05/22, deep in wide crack at the top, take care not to disturb them! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Jackdaw nest with tiny chicks in as of 14/05/22, deep in wide crack at the top, take care not to disturb them! |
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| smoreda | 22 Oct, 2019 |
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βeta: I did not think the polish was any issue. Gear is good where it matters, and then it is not to make sure you concentrate until the very end. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I did not think the polish was any issue. Gear is good where it matters, and then it is not to make sure you concentrate until the very end. |
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| Chris the Tall | 12 Sep, 2007 |
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βeta: Stunning route, just about worth 3 stars due to the exposure. Plenty of gear when you need it, but top end of the grade. The rose hip at the bottom could do with a prune | βeta? | |
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βeta: Stunning route, just about worth 3 stars due to the exposure. Plenty of gear when you need it, but top end of the grade. The rose hip at the bottom could do with a prune |
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| Swig | 25 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: A good route although newcomers to limestone could find more gentle introductions especially if VS is their limit. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A good route although newcomers to limestone could find more gentle introductions especially if VS is their limit. |
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| mat_galvin | 25 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: Felt VS without the polish-HVS with. Hard work getting through those 2 moves-rest of it was excellent. Gear not great but enough to keep your head together at the vital times. Not 3 stars though | βeta? | |
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βeta: Felt VS without the polish-HVS with. Hard work getting through those 2 moves-rest of it was excellent. Gear not great but enough to keep your head together at the vital times. Not 3 stars though |
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| PaulW | 5 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: good route, value for VS. Crack at mid height is pretty polished which reduces it to 2 stars for me. | βeta? | |
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βeta: good route, value for VS. Crack at mid height is pretty polished which reduces it to 2 stars for me. |
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| DrGav | 27 Sep, 2004 |
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βeta: Not huge amounts of gear at all on either pitch, although partly compensated by not too much loose rock either. Some exposed & run-out laybacking. Certainly made my heart go boom! Exciting route... | βeta? | |
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βeta: Not huge amounts of gear at all on either pitch, although partly compensated by not too much loose rock either. Some exposed & run-out laybacking. Certainly made my heart go boom! Exciting route... |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for High Tor
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Route 1
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Dovestone Tor)