Rockfax Description
The long corner with a large capping roof gives a fine route, high in the grade and with a smattering of loose rock for added spice.
1) 4b, 18m. Climb the corner to a belay under the bulge.
2) 5a, 27m. Pull over the bulge then follow the corner to the roof. Traverse wildly left to gain the finishing corner. © Rockfax
FFA. Unknown. FA. Doug Scott, Steve Read 1965..
Ticklists
Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , Classic Peak Limestone Trad - VDiff to E2 , Peak Rock/10/White Life , Ultimate HVS ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs , Peak District Limestone Trad
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| jackmorford | 30 May, 2023 |
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βeta: Very loose triangular block just above the bulge, tempting for a right hand but do not pull on it! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very loose triangular block just above the bulge, tempting for a right hand but do not pull on it! |
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| smoreda | 22 Oct, 2019 |
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βeta: Three pegs protect the crux; first one is redundant as there is good natural pro, third one I can vouch is good. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Three pegs protect the crux; first one is redundant as there is good natural pro, third one I can vouch is good. |
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| Crumpet | 11 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: Questionable tat on peg that could do with removing. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Questionable tat on peg that could do with removing. |
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| MNA123 | 10 Apr, 2007 |
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βeta: Climbed this a yr or so ago and really enjoyed it! Agree that moves over the bulge are reachy,can't remember whether i got the onsight (think i did) pegs were a bit wanky but nice nut and hex placements anyway,the floor feels a looonnngg way down when traversing under the roof! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Climbed this a yr or so ago and really enjoyed it! Agree that moves over the bulge are reachy,can't remember whether i got the onsight (think i did) pegs were a bit wanky but nice nut and hex placements anyway,the floor feels a looonnngg way down when traversing under the roof! |
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| cem | 13 Sep, 2006 |
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βeta: Surely this no more than HVS 5a? | βeta? | |
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βeta: Surely this no more than HVS 5a? |
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| supersteve | 18 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: E1 5b on any other limestone crag in Britain - climbing is good but the loose rock has to knock at least one star off. Definitly worth doing though. | βeta? | |
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βeta: E1 5b on any other limestone crag in Britain - climbing is good but the loose rock has to knock at least one star off. Definitly worth doing though. |
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| PaulW | 5 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: 5a is a bit mean for getting over the bulge. The rest is superb. hard moves, rests, plenty of gear. | βeta? | |
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βeta: 5a is a bit mean for getting over the bulge. The rest is superb. hard moves, rests, plenty of gear. |
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| VisionSet | 13 Feb, 2002 |
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βeta: I\'ve put high for both HVS & 5a, but that crux section is VERY goey (and a bit loose), and wouldn\'t disgrace an E1. Superb anyhow. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I've put high for both HVS & 5a, but that crux section is VERY goey (and a bit loose), and wouldn't disgrace an E1. Superb anyhow. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for High Tor
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Herford's Route
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Kinder Southern Edges)