45m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A major and historic tick that can be forgiven for the odd bit of polish here and there. The route crosses some remarkable ground with hidden jugs, ample protection and bags of exposure. Back up any old gear that you come across.
1) 5b, 21m. Traverse left from the base of Original Route, moving up to a peg. Keep going up left to two cracks (on Darius) - this can be done high or low with no change in grade. Move left again below the bulge then pull over to the famous stance.
2) 5b, 24m. Leave the stance via the left-hand crack to a peg. Make an awkward rising traverse leftwards (pegs) to easier ground below the break. Keep traversing horizontally left (more pegs) until you can pull up to a tree. © Rockfax

FFA. Pete Livesey, John Sheard 1967. FA. Chris Jackson, John Atkinson (some aid) 1965..

Ticklists

Hard Rock , The High Tor Top Ten , Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , Classic Peak Limestone Trad - VDiff to E2 , The Peak: Past and Present , World Graded List , Peak Rock/10/White Life , Ultimate E1 ticklist , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad , Extreme 2018 , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Most Popular Peak District Climbs per Grade , It's "D" Day at High Tor , On Peak Rock , 2019 all-rounder Psyche list , Hard Rock 2020 , Best of the rest and the ones that got away , Pete's Peak Treats , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs , Preparation for the Resurrection , Peak District Limestone Trad , Peak Traverses

Feedback

User Date Notes
steveb2006 12 Feb, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Quite a few of the gear slots are getting very worn - you do seem a bit over reliant on old pegs at times.
βeta?
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βeta: Quite a few of the gear slots are getting very worn - you do seem a bit over reliant on old pegs at times.
mrjonathanr 25 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Treat the rock in upper part of pitch with care.
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βeta: Treat the rock in upper part of pitch with care.
mb_manchester 22 Nov, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: great gem. provides enormous air volume and the feelings are both exciting and scary. the climbing is very enjoyable in the 1st pitch, the 2nd is the Crux with 2 Crux sections, in my opinion. plenty of gear though and plenty of proper trad climbing. awesome climb!
βeta?
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βeta: great gem. provides enormous air volume and the feelings are both exciting and scary. the climbing is very enjoyable in the 1st pitch, the 2nd is the Crux with 2 Crux sections, in my opinion. plenty of gear though and plenty of proper trad climbing. awesome climb!
sharptrigg 17 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Huge loose block as you approach the P2 belay
βeta?
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βeta: Huge loose block as you approach the P2 belay
Chris the Tall 12 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome. Almost went wrong on the first pitch because the peg isn't visible from the tree stump, but a couple of others are. Also thought more like 5a (traversed high - low option looked much harder). Second pitch is both harder and more sustained, but plenty of pegs
βeta?
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βeta: Awesome. Almost went wrong on the first pitch because the peg isn't visible from the tree stump, but a couple of others are. Also thought more like 5a (traversed high - low option looked much harder). Second pitch is both harder and more sustained, but plenty of pegs
Alex Mason 9 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Yeah i thought the top pitch crux was really scary pretty sure that the peg wouldnt hold it moves freely. great route though if you lead it try and get the top pitch much more fun!!
βeta?
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βeta: Yeah i thought the top pitch crux was really scary pretty sure that the peg wouldnt hold it moves freely. great route though if you lead it try and get the top pitch much more fun!!
John Alcock 16 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Wonderful. Small aliens are useful. I got 2 super placements above the peg on the first pitch.
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βeta: Wonderful. Small aliens are useful. I got 2 super placements above the peg on the first pitch.
Alun 21 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A superb route, the infrequent bits of polish do nothing to diminish it's quality. Bold 1st pitch contrasts a more sustained 2nd, but there are plenty of good rests. Most of the pegs are either bent or loose, but many can be backed up with decent wires.
βeta?
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βeta: A superb route, the infrequent bits of polish do nothing to diminish it's quality. Bold 1st pitch contrasts a more sustained 2nd, but there are plenty of good rests. Most of the pegs are either bent or loose, but many can be backed up with decent wires.
ste 2 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: re the rusty pegs. the 3rd peg on pitch 2 (the one after the one with the sling) came out as i was testing it cos it looked loose. i put it back which in retrspect probably wasnt the best course of action.
βeta?
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βeta: re the rusty pegs. the 3rd peg on pitch 2 (the one after the one with the sling) came out as i was testing it cos it looked loose. i put it back which in retrspect probably wasnt the best course of action.
Furzy Sleight 9 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Tasty
βeta?
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βeta: Tasty

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Route of Interest
Sirplum

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Chee Dale Upper)

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