8m.

Rockfax Description
The hand-crack in a shallow groove gives good climbing to a tough exit on jams. © Rockfax

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Northern Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet

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User Date Notes
mountainremedy 15 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Got big silver dragon stuck in the top crack. Pretty sure it’s a goner but if anyone is able to remove I will buy you a pint or 3!
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βeta: Got big silver dragon stuck in the top crack. Pretty sure it’s a goner but if anyone is able to remove I will buy you a pint or 3!
john nightingale 27 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: tried to onsight solo this but had to retreat,and i like jaming and think dexterity at millstone is easy.
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βeta: tried to onsight solo this but had to retreat,and i like jaming and think dexterity at millstone is easy.
MeMeMe 29 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: It's not sustained enough plus it has great gear so I don't reckon it is HVS. Tough for VS though, nice moves at the top.
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βeta: It's not sustained enough plus it has great gear so I don't reckon it is HVS. Tough for VS though, nice moves at the top.
MNA123 22 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Real b*stard of a route, i'd give it HVS 5b, but that's just me.
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βeta: Real b*stard of a route, i'd give it HVS 5b, but that's just me.
Jon Greengrass 25 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: It's a crack, if you don't trust your fists you'll struggle.
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βeta: It's a crack, if you don't trust your fists you'll struggle.
Ander 11 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Blimey. You've got to either have bloody mindedness or great jamming technique for this one. I had to make do with bloody mindedness. The best thing about this route is that I've done it and don't have to do it again.
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βeta: Blimey. You've got to either have bloody mindedness or great jamming technique for this one. I had to make do with bloody mindedness. The best thing about this route is that I've done it and don't have to do it again.
CragHead 23 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I personally love jamming but "the least brutal pitch on this part of the cliff" is not true - the top part of the route is tough and it feel like 5a/5b jamming.
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βeta: I personally love jamming but "the least brutal pitch on this part of the cliff" is not true - the top part of the route is tough and it feel like 5a/5b jamming.
Frank the Husky 22 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: erm...what's a 'gaston'?
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βeta: erm...what's a 'gaston'?

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Higgar Tor

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 81
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 81
Votes cast 63
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Obscenity

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Burbage North)

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