Restricted Access

Avoid the crag after rain - the porous rock absorbs water causing holds to become brittle. The top tier bouldering normally dries fastest and is exposed to any wind going.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Peregrines nest left of Clashhooks Gully as you look in, please avoid all routes on Upper & Lower Central Buttresses during this period. Raven have also been sighted around the route 'The Notch' - climbers are advised to avoid this area if the birds are in residence. 

Peregrine chicks were confirmed in 2022, 2023 was less clear and we're checking the situation for 2024. The site is actively monitored by local bird groups, please avoid until the agreed date of 30 June and possibly longer to give chicks chance to fledge. Peregrines are a protected species covered by criminal law.

14m.

Rockfax Description
The finest route on the cliff! If you are passing at least call in and tick this one! The upper section is a classic layback although those in the know will jam it. There have been plenty of accidents on it over the years so take care. © Rockfax

FA. Colin Kirkus early 1920s 1922.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50 , 100 More Classic British VS Climbs , Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Colin Kirkus' routes , Cheshire/Merseyside *** routes , McCoys Homestyle trad , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3

Feedback

User Date Notes
mountainremedy 12 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Quit climbing wet sand stone people, really poor form!
βeta?
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βeta: Quit climbing wet sand stone people, really poor form!
Pekkie 21 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Careful lads! There have been a number of fatalities on this route, including quite recently. A completely different proposition soloing from top roping/seconding. Best to lead -take big friends and hexcentrics.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Careful lads! There have been a number of fatalities on this route, including quite recently. A completely different proposition soloing from top roping/seconding. Best to lead -take big friends and hexcentrics.
MeMeMe 1 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Wonderful laybacking with little pockety bits for your feet.
βeta?
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βeta: Wonderful laybacking with little pockety bits for your feet.
Christopher Owen 29 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Why jam on this? The layback is superb!
Show beta
βeta: Why jam on this? The layback is superb!
Simon Caldwell 28 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: You could always lead it ;-)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: You could always lead it ;-)

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 92
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 85
Votes cast 109
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Grooved Slab

Grade: VS 4a ***
(Helsby)

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