Avoid the crag after rain - the porous rock absorbs water causing holds to become brittle. The top tier bouldering normally dries fastest and is exposed to any wind going.
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Peregrines nest left of Clashhooks Gully as you look in, please avoid all routes on Upper & Lower Central Buttresses during this period. Raven have also been sighted around the route 'The Notch' - climbers are advised to avoid this area if the birds are in residence.
Peregrine chicks were confirmed in 2022, 2023 was less clear and we're checking the situation for 2024. The site is actively monitored by local bird groups, please avoid until the agreed date of 30 June and possibly longer to give chicks chance to fledge. Peregrines are a protected species covered by criminal law.
Rockfax Description
The finest route on the cliff! If you are passing at least call in and tick this one! The upper section is a classic layback although those in the know will jam it. There have been plenty of accidents on it over the years so take care. © Rockfax
FA. Colin Kirkus early 1920s 1922.
ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50 , 100 More Classic British VS Climbs , Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Colin Kirkus' routes , Cheshire/Merseyside *** routes , McCoys Homestyle trad , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3
User | Date | Notes | ||
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mountainremedy | 12 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: Quit climbing wet sand stone people, really poor form! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Quit climbing wet sand stone people, really poor form! |
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Pekkie | 21 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: Careful lads! There have been a number of fatalities on this route, including quite recently. A completely different proposition soloing from top roping/seconding. Best to lead -take big friends and hexcentrics. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Careful lads! There have been a number of fatalities on this route, including quite recently. A completely different proposition soloing from top roping/seconding. Best to lead -take big friends and hexcentrics. |
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MeMeMe | 1 Sep, 2004 |
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βeta: Wonderful laybacking with little pockety bits for your feet. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Wonderful laybacking with little pockety bits for your feet. |
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Christopher Owen | 29 May, 2004 |
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βeta: Why jam on this? The layback is superb! | ||
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βeta: Why jam on this? The layback is superb! |
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Simon Caldwell | 28 Oct, 2003 |
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βeta: You could always lead it ;-) | βeta? | |
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βeta: You could always lead it ;-) |
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Grade: VS 4a ***
(Helsby)