36m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Dartmoor's enduring classic - sustained and engrossing on perfect rock. Start at a short pillar below a steep flake crack.
1) 5b, 16m. Climb the short pillar to beneath the bulging and rounded flake crack. Forceful moves into and up the crack are then followed by a delicate and technical traverse right to a hanging belay on nuts and a tied-off chickenhead.
2) 5a, 20m. Traverse a short way rightwards and climb a flake crack and the insecure drainpipe above to easier slab climbing and the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
By popular UKC demand this will remain at E1 for now!

FA. D.Bassett 15/Jun/1961.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , Rockfax West Country top 50 , Ultimate E1 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Memorable Climbs , Extreme 2018 , Moving to Devon , BMG Application Rock (Unofficial) , Bristol Crack School , The E1 UK Roadtrip , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Devon and surrounding counties 50 E1 and some E2 and 1 E3 and an E4 , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , Classic Rock Climbs in Southern England by Bill Birkett , Dartmoor UKC *** Trad , Definitive *** Dartmoor Trad , Top 25 E Grades in the southwest , Devon and surrounding counties, 51 E1, some E2, 1 E3 and an E9 , 2023 , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Road to lundy

Feedback

User Date Notes
rjohnn 30 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Single pitch doable but loads of drag and communication from the top tricky on windy day.
βeta?
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βeta: Single pitch doable but loads of drag and communication from the top tricky on windy day.
badgerjockey 30 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Can confirm that abbing off the ironwork at the top enables retrieval of stuck gear on 60m ropes.
βeta?
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βeta: Can confirm that abbing off the ironwork at the top enables retrieval of stuck gear on 60m ropes.
Liz.Morrison 15 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant route, good job my hanging belay was bomber, Rich needed a helping hand getting through the crux!
βeta?
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βeta: Brilliant route, good job my hanging belay was bomber, Rich needed a helping hand getting through the crux!
laurasmitton 11 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Did in one pitch, ended up with quite a lot of drag. A belting route though!
βeta?
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βeta: Did in one pitch, ended up with quite a lot of drag. A belting route though!
DaveHK 14 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Defo HVS. Felt easier than many HVS's to me. Guess it comes down to how you are on cracks / laybacks.
βeta?
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βeta: Defo HVS. Felt easier than many HVS's to me. Guess it comes down to how you are on cracks / laybacks.
chris j 15 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Steady HVS, good pro all up the first pitch, maybe a 5b move on the traverse. Second pitch slightly insecure feeling climbing up the groove but if you're confident at the grade it'll be a breeze. Do it in two pitches for all the fun of the semi-hanging belay at the flake! (no idea why you'd tie off the chickenhead as there's better anchors there)
βeta?
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βeta: Steady HVS, good pro all up the first pitch, maybe a 5b move on the traverse. Second pitch slightly insecure feeling climbing up the groove but if you're confident at the grade it'll be a breeze. Do it in two pitches for all the fun of the semi-hanging belay at the flake! (no idea why you'd tie off the chickenhead as there's better anchors there)
Matt_b 30 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Err why the downgrade?
βeta?
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βeta: Err why the downgrade?

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 167
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 186
Votes cast 184
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Headline

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Lundy)

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