Climbs 90
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces NE
Flame Arete © Kevin Avery
Crag features
A partly quarried crag that lies under a verdant tree cover. However, the crag saw a revival of interest in October 2011. Many of the routes in the E1 to E7 range have been cleaned. Not much for lower grade climbers. Best routes: Squirrel Crack E1; Ginny Greenteeth E5.
There is currently very little issue with vegetation affecting approaches or the climbs themselves. The crag seems to be quick drying, which is a bonus.
Approach notes
From Steeton head along the B6265 for approximately 1km to park by Hawkcliffe farm. *Please park considerately and avoid parking near the farm entrance.* The approach to Emerald Buttress is 10 minutes from the road: trending left from the wall when a flattening in the woods is encountered.
NO ACCESS FROM ROAD ABOVE. No Dogs or large parties.
Restricted Access
An access agreement was reached with Thoreby Estate in 1997. The Estate is favourable towards climbers provided there is minimal disturbance and cars are parked sensibly (see below).
A barrier and no access notice which appeared in 2020 are not believed to be the work of the owner. Unsuccessful attempts were made to contact the owner around the time. No further access problems have arisen since.
Dogs are not allowed.
Keep gardening to a minimum.
Be aware that shooting takes place in these woods sometimes.
| The householder who lives opposite the bus stop has asked that cars be parked next to the bus stop and on the kerb/grass as he has large wagons turning into his entrance. GeoffG - 21/Nov/17 |
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| Had a feeling about the peg on Blull Gumm Sloggitt as it was still there but half snapped when i was there last year. Checked today and it's not replaced; it's still half snapped. Don't fall on it! Dave Warburton - 05/May/12 |
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| A flame-thrower might also come in useful! Nonetheless an aesthetically impressive woodland (OK jungle) crag with some huge lines. The crazy world of the Great Rift needs to be seen to be believed if nothing else. Moderating for the next Grit guide (more often than not with a TR, hence not bothered to log the climbs here), we found preparation of routes essential at most times of the year and recommend climbers check top-outs even on apparently clean lines. Access to the needle is best done direct by branching off the approach (detailed description in forthcoming guide) as, although only 80m from Prow Buttress, it'll take about 20 minutes to crawl that 80m! Tons of new routes listed on Leeds Wall. NOTE: Snapped piton on Blull Gumm Sloggitt has been replaced. Would benefit from regular visits by climbing clubs/large parties with an enthusiastic spirit of adventure. Crag best suited to consolidated E-number climbers. jimorothy - 01/Mar/12 |
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| Crag is fine. 10minute walk in to Emerald Buttress following the track left up an embankment, not staying near the wall.
Routes are good and clean currently are Flame Arete, Curlew, Fistful of Siestas, Brian's Crack, Syrett's Slit, Squirrel Crack and Abandon Hope. Take a Nylon Brush and perhaps secateurs. Really should be more popular, the harder routes look amazing. Dave Warburton - 02/Oct/11 |
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| Visited September 2009 and was fairly ok walking along the bottom to get to routes. a bit dirty but no worse than say Eavestone. Mattyk - 20/Sep/09 |
Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers Alex Thompson and Carlos Montero