Climbs 66
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 330m a.s.l
Faces NW
Acid Head © freemanTom
Varied and in some places excellent climbing sometimes over 15 metres in a woodland setting that catches evening sun. Tree belays prevail and caution should be taken with loose finishes. Deserves more attention in some people's opinion.
Park on mown grass area just opposite the caravan park entrance. Head to the obvious gate at the West end of the grassy area and then into the trees to the left, following a vague path into the woods.
Head directly uphill to two large holly trees on your left, going leftwards behind either or them before continueing to keep heading up until you meet a path.
Go left and pass a permissible path sign, turn right shortly after to reach the right hand end of the crag. To reach the left hand end and the "popular" climbs, continue past the permissible path sign, through the thick woods then past a collection of small boulders and finally taking a right turn and a short uphill section.
Approach time is 10 to 15 minutes.
Having located the crag, traversing the base can be a challenge. There are some fine lines but the top outs are mainly on to loose rock and earth, causing risk to the climbers and their belayers or anyone below. There are plenty of trees to abseil down from, which may be safer than crossing to the few descent lines.
Guidebooks;
North of England Rock Climbs - Stewart Wilson - 1992 .This guide is far more comprehensive than the later one and lends itself to a far more worthwhile visit if it can be got hold of.
North East England - Crowe, Bennett & Turner 2003
Nettles can be a hazard and the base of the crag is frequently muddy.
There are worrying reports of "bolting" (June 2015).
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