UKC

Climbs 66
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 330m a.s.l
Faces NW

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Acid Head © freemanTom

Crag features

Varied and in some places excellent climbing sometimes over 15 metres in a woodland setting that catches evening sun. Tree belays prevail and caution should be taken with loose finishes. Deserves more attention in some people's opinion. 

Approach notes

Park on mown grass area just opposite the caravan park entrance. Head to the obvious gate at the West end of the grassy area and then into the trees to the left, following a vague path into the woods.

Head directly uphill to two large holly trees on your left, going leftwards behind either or them before continueing to keep heading up until you meet a path.

Go left and pass a permissible path sign, turn right shortly after to reach the right hand end of the crag. To reach the left hand end and the "popular" climbs, continue past the permissible path sign, through the thick woods then past a collection of small boulders and finally taking a right turn and a short uphill section.

Approach time is 10 to 15 minutes. 

No Access Issues

Having located the crag, traversing the base can be a challenge. There are some fine lines but the top outs are mainly on to loose rock and earth, causing risk to the climbers and their belayers or anyone below. There are plenty of trees to abseil down from, which may be safer than crossing to the few descent lines.

Guidebooks;

North of England Rock Climbs - Stewart Wilson - 1992 .This guide is far more comprehensive than the later one and lends itself to a far more worthwhile visit if it can be got hold of.

North East England - Crowe, Bennett & Turner 2003 

Nettles can be a hazard and the base of the crag is frequently muddy.

There are worrying reports of "bolting" (June 2015).

Lovely crag with some interesting features. The approach is slightly demanding but equally rewarding. It appears that there’s been some bolting happening, when I was there today there was a whole route with shiny new bolts put in. The bolt placements were slightly strange and seemed unnecessary. There’s also evidence of some cut bolts.
benjaminthomas1999 - 15/Sep/22
We were pleasantly surprised and will be back for more. The pink limestone often has good pockets and cracks that provide some interesting routes. Trees are crucial for belays at the top.
Iain Brown - 17/May/22
Access is emotional but once you get there it is definitely worth the nettles. Some really nice short climbs for soloing and some tastier stuff for gear. Nicely shaded in the sunshine, although this isn't always an issue in this neck of the woods.
JoeDickens - 21/Jun/13
Visited this crag in May 2013. Packed on the bend between those plastic reflector posts. Nettles weren't too bad at this time of year alltho by 4pm I was being eaten by midges while belaying. Loads of wild garlic at the base of the crag and throughout the wood. We couldn't find the path up but found it on the way back down and its easier than the route we took up. The path leads up from the right hand side of the plastic posts.
lissymanners - 13/May/13
Some surprisingly fine routes though finishes typically loose, needs more traffic to clean up more. Some in situ tat on trees would make it more user friendly.
freemanTom - 04/May/11
The crag exists and is spelt Hag Wood in the mini guide. The access to it is terrible, though when you know the way it is no more than 10 minutes. The rock, when you get there, is a lot more stable than most areas in Swaledale and some of the climbs are sublime, especially Tower Traverse 18m. The crag also dries quickly, however, after rain the access and path beneath it are very slippy - there are a few nettles to be negotiated as well (do not wear shorts). GETTING THERE: Drive out of Richmond on the A6108 for 2.5 miles until you meet the main gate of the Swaleview caravan site. On the opposite side of the road is the dense Hag Wood. Heading back towards Richmond there is a gradual bend of about 300m at the end of which is a sharp little bend to the left and a public footpath. In between these two points there is a point on the road where it is possible to drive onto some long grass between some of those plastic road reflector posts. While the path can not be seen from this parking area (room for two cars tops), it is no more than 10m from you. Head through the nettles to find the path. This can be very slippy. Follow it up the hill as it trends and traverses slightly rightwards. This will bring you to the lefthand end of the crag not far from a distinctive detached pillar on the right. 5-10 min.
jimorothy - 09/Jun/08
I'm not sure this crag exists! We went looking for it, but we couldnt see it!
Jamie Hill - 11/Sep/06
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