Rockfax Description
A popular route up a gear packed corner 9m right of Ledgend that gives exhausting climbing. It has taken a lot of scalps over the years and fully merits its HVS grade.
1) 5a, 18m. Climb a wall to gain the corner, which leads steeply to a ledge and belay on the left, as for Ledgend.
2) 4a, 15m. As for Ledgend pitch two. © Rockfax
FA. P.Neame, A.Monnery 12/Feb/1967.
Ticklists
West Country Climbs , SW Climbs - Swanage , Ultimate HVS ticklist , The V.S.+ Ticklist , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Dorset Routes that are worth doing
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| dinodinosaur | 3 May, 2023 |
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βeta: Currently an in-situ seagull on the belay | βeta? | |
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βeta: Currently an in-situ seagull on the belay |
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| cameron dalley | 19 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: Top jams on crack (crux) are all horribly sweaty/polished. Good protection in the crack all the way up including an old cam. | ||
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βeta: Top jams on crack (crux) are all horribly sweaty/polished. Good protection in the crack all the way up including an old cam. |
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| ian bryant | 13 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: hvs 5a sounds about right for the first pitch | βeta? | |
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βeta: hvs 5a sounds about right for the first pitch |
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| Richard Horn | 5 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: I felt HVS 5a would be a more suitable, although low in the grade, with the one 5a move reaching up for the hold at the top of the groove. The holds are good, it just requires some commitment. Were forced to leave a No 9 rock in the crack yesterday as it has started raining, feel free to keep it if you can get it out! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I felt HVS 5a would be a more suitable, although low in the grade, with the one 5a move reaching up for the hold at the top of the groove. The holds are good, it just requires some commitment. Were forced to leave a No 9 rock in the crack yesterday as it has started raining, feel free to keep it if you can get it out! |
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| phayes | 18 Jun, 2004 |
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βeta: I climb regular VS 4c routes at wintours leap and just starting onto HVS, found this route very hard and a bit of a suprise, thought i was having a bad day, the temp was 30+ so the rock was sweating which may have upped the grade. maybe under cooler conditions it is a VS. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I climb regular VS 4c routes at wintours leap and just starting onto HVS, found this route very hard and a bit of a suprise, thought i was having a bad day, the temp was 30+ so the rock was sweating which may have upped the grade. maybe under cooler conditions it is a VS. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Guillemot Ledge
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Jo
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Boulder Ruckle)