Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Restrictions apply between the Dancing Ledge and Valkyrie Buttress Direct, and also east of The Razor's Edge.

36m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A popular route. Start just right of Ledgend Direct.
1) 4c, 18m. Climb a short wall to a ledge, then move up rightwards to enter and follow a corner to an overhang. Go right to a ledge and belay.
2) 4a, 18m. Ascend a groove and flakes, then move right and up to a ledge. Pass another ledge and a small roof on the left. © Rockfax

FA. D.Hadlum, G.Reynolds 25/Mar/1967.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , Dorset Routes that are worth doing

Feedback

User Date Notes
Kiddie68 8 Feb Show βeta
βeta: Great route with worthwhile second pitch to evenly match the first.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route with worthwhile second pitch to evenly match the first.
Simon Geary 18 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Back up the gear as you get higher on the crack! Nut fell out as I was moving through the crux, pretty scary!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Back up the gear as you get higher on the crack! Nut fell out as I was moving through the crux, pretty scary!
eldre070 6 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Last 5m of the 1st pitch was really tricky in my opinion. I lead the 2nd pitch and traversed left not right. Big mistake as the rock is loose in the extreme. BEWARE.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Last 5m of the 1st pitch was really tricky in my opinion. I lead the 2nd pitch and traversed left not right. Big mistake as the rock is loose in the extreme. BEWARE.
GrahamD 12 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Another little gem.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Another little gem.
phayes 18 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Bit harder then I expected, but I would say this was a lovely route and thought it was better then Legend Direct. When you get to the top of the crack and traverse across, it is awsom. The belay point is great for the view. I would recommend this route, but its a bit stiff for the grade.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bit harder then I expected, but I would say this was a lovely route and thought it was better then Legend Direct. When you get to the top of the crack and traverse across, it is awsom. The belay point is great for the view. I would recommend this route, but its a bit stiff for the grade.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 101
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 92
Votes cast 89
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Tatra (pre 2014 rockfall)

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Boulder Ruckle)

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