An epic outing through some amazing territory. Start from the vegetated ramp beneath the wall, reached by abseil. An obvious feature on the wall is a horizontal break which cuts across rightwards from the ramp. Heart of Gold pitch 1 traverses above this and The Super Calabrese pitch 1 traverses below it. Start down and right off the ramp beneath a ridiculously impregnable looking overhanging wall.
1.40m 6b. This pitch features some soft rock but is solid in the grade. From the ramp traverse in rightwards to a spike/pinnacle feature in the centre of the wall. Arrange protection here. Continue directly on wonderful bubbles to enter a small groove. Climb this to a no-hands rest on a ledge in the horizontal break beneath an overhang. There is good but awkward to arrange protection over the lip. Surmount the overhang and continue up the porcelain slab above past some small wires to an impasse. Make some tricky moves past the difficulties to easier but still pumpy ground above. Fight through this fairly hostile environment to easier ground on The Missionary. There is now a choice of belays. The original "non" belay involves traversing left to a good spike with peg runner above. The first ascentionists belayed off the peg and standing on the spike which may be more stylish but less safe than belayed hanging off the spike and equalised to the peg and other runners nearby. Alternatively continue directly to gain a square cut ledge (10 feet up the original second pitch) which provides a bomb-proof belay.
2.40m 6b. From the square cut ledge, climb directly up on the vertical wall just left of a shallow groove. Bold, thin and tricky moves lead to a good jug. More bold, thin and tricky moves lead to the garden (in-situ monster alien spiders). Continue directly to the top. Proceed directly to the pub and get pissed.
Paul Pritchard and Moose Thomas, 28 Aug 1986.

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