Dates: 1 February to 27 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Summer 2022
Birds have nested early and the restrictions are lifted for 2022 only.
A very important sea- bird nesting area and seasonal restrictions apply to the whole crag.
Rockfax Description
A fine route with a serious first pitch and strenuous top one. Start 8m up left from Left-hand Red Wall, at a vegetated groove.
1) 5c, 28m. Climb the groove to join Left-hand Red Wall at the small roof. Move immediately left to a hollow flake. Climb this, and the wall above, until level with the Left-hand Red Wall belay before traversing right to it.
2) 6b, 28m. Go diagonally up left to an overlap. Arrange some gear (micro cam) and make steep technical moves to a ledge on the left below a huge groove. Ascend the enjoyable groove more easily, to a swing right at its end. Finish up the airy wall. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Not as badly protected as the page cover of the guide makes it look. Possible only 6a. A very fine route, with a serious first pitch and strenuous top pitch. Start eight metres up left from Left-Hand Red Wall, at a vegetated groove.
1 28m. 5c. Climb the vegetated groove to join Left-Hand Red Wall at the small roof. Swing immediately left to a hollow flake. Climb this, and the wall above, until level with the Left-Hand Red Wall belay. Traverse right to belay.
2 28m. 6b. Go diagonally up left to an overlap, and climb strenuously on good rock to a ledge on the left, below a monster groove. Ascend the groove, in a wild position, to swing right at its end on to the rug to finish.
Paul Pritchard, Nick Harms. Second pitch climbed on 16 Aug 1986, first pitch added later in 1986.
North Wales Rock Graded List , Caff's 100 Ace E5s , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet)
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Grade: E6 6a ***
(Gogarth South Stack)