Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 27 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Summer 2022

Birds have nested early and the restrictions are lifted for 2022 only.

 

A very important  sea- bird nesting area and seasonal restrictions apply to the whole crag. 

 

Rockfax Description
A fine route with a serious first pitch and strenuous top one. Start 8m up left from Left-hand Red Wall, at a vegetated groove.
1) 5c, 28m. Climb the groove to join Left-hand Red Wall at the small roof. Move immediately left to a hollow flake. Climb this, and the wall above, until level with the Left-hand Red Wall belay before traversing right to it.
2) 6b, 28m. Go diagonally up left to an overlap. Arrange some gear (micro cam) and make steep technical moves to a ledge on the left below a huge groove. Ascend the enjoyable groove more easily, to a swing right at its end. Finish up the airy wall. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Not as badly protected as the page cover of the guide makes it look. Possible only 6a. A very fine route, with a serious first pitch and strenuous top pitch. Start eight metres up left from Left-Hand Red Wall, at a vegetated groove.
1 28m. 5c. Climb the vegetated groove to join Left-Hand Red Wall at the small roof. Swing immediately left to a hollow flake. Climb this, and the wall above, until level with the Left-Hand Red Wall belay. Traverse right to belay.
2 28m. 6b. Go diagonally up left to an overlap, and climb strenuously on good rock to a ledge on the left, below a monster groove. Ascend the groove, in a wild position, to swing right at its end on to the rug to finish.
Paul Pritchard, Nick Harms. Second pitch climbed on 16 Aug 1986, first pitch added later in 1986.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Caff's 100 Ace E5s , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet)

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Guidebooks for Gogarth South Stack

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High 6c
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High 6a
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Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Sea Witch

Grade: E6 6a ***
(Gogarth South Stack)

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