Rockfax Description
One of the most amazing routes at Gogarth - involved, adventurous but never desperate, and the geology is marvellous. Start at the base of the zawn at the left-hand side of a cave.
1) 5a, 40m. Climb to the top of the groove, place a high wire, move back down and step out onto the wall. Trend up and right against the grain of the rock to eventually arrive at a slab. Follow this across right to a stance.
2) 5a, 45m. Climb up onto the wall and traverse right to a diagonal line. Move up this and then round a fin of rock on the right to enter the next groove. Follow this up to where it turns into a long narrow slab. Continue to a thread belay at its top, below a steep tower.
3) 5a, 30m. An exciting finale! Move right into a niche, and gain a crack on the right, follow this up with difficulty to where it kinks left to a corner. Follow the corner up to where the angle eases. Climb easy ground up right and then back left to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
In the definitive guide the first and second pitch's are both given 5b, which I would agree with. Take plenty of slings.
Ticklists
Hard Rock , Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice , North Wales Rock Graded List , ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales , MIA logbook must haves! , Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2 , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , Ultimate E2 ticklist , UK Lonely Leads , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , The Top 5 E2's in the UK? , The Road to Shibboleth , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The Seaside (Oh I Do Like To Be Beside) , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Hard Rock 2020 , 30 For My 30s , The Post-Lockdown Vanventure Ticklist , The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship. , Hard Rock & Other Classics , 2021 Ticklist , 2021 , Bold Tradprenticeship , Wales Trip - 2022 , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Another lifelist? , E1-E3 adventure routes: seacliffs, outcrops just not mountains. , Dream lines , North Wales To Do List , Climb like a rodent , Dunc's ticklist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| d8vehinton | 17 Sep, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax topo is incorrect for the 2nd belay and top pitch. At the end of the long groove on the 2nd pitch move left onto the slab and take a very comfortable belay on a thread and other spikes. Top pitch starting with a large niche awaits up right. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Rockfax topo is incorrect for the 2nd belay and top pitch. At the end of the long groove on the 2nd pitch move left onto the slab and take a very comfortable belay on a thread and other spikes. Top pitch starting with a large niche awaits up right. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Gogarth South Stack
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Lost Time
Grade: E2 5c ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)