Two serious pitches allow the purist to gain the promontory from the beach. From here the superb top pitch which is of comparable difficulty to Me lies between you and the Cafe. Alternatively the promontory can be gained by abseil and the main pitch climbed in it's own right which will make more sense to most!
1. 28m 5c. This pitch famously "takes no prisoners". It starts from the boulder beach below the horrific territory above. Cross a wet slab and then climb a short flake onto a ledge containing some grass cauliflowers. Climb the open scoop above trending rightwards utilising a four to one mixture of shale and cement to reach some flakes on an arete. Move up to large quartz holds then traverse back left and move down to belay on blocks.
2. 45m 5b. Move rightwards of the belay and up a short crack to gain the most obvious left to right traverse line. Follow this to the promontory and move up to it's apex.
3. 39m 6b. Start 4 meters right of The Sind. Climb up to a niche, then pull round leftwards onto the The Sind's golden slab. Climb this for a couple of meters before moving left to beneath a small roof, pull through this and follow a flake/crack to the large roof of Dog's of War. Place some bomber runners then commit to the groove system straight above and follow it without respite to the top.
Stevie Haston and Ray Kay over 2 consecutive weekends, July 1986. Originally climbed in 4 pitches with a hanging belay in The Sind. Top pitch repeated by Crispin Waddy 1980s. Entire route repeated by Mike Twid Turner and Owain Jones 1980s.

Ticklists

Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , 100 Worthwhile E7's

Feedback Always Hide βeta

6 users have logged this