Dates: 1 February to 27 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Summer 2022
Birds have nested early and the restrictions are lifted for 2022 only.
A very important sea- bird nesting area and seasonal restrictions apply to the whole crag.
Rockfax Description
Two brilliant pitches up the centre of the attractive golden wall. There is some seepage and is covered in guano at the start of the season. Start at a ledge, 6m above the sea.
1) 5c, 37m. Climb easily up the wall for 6m and go over a slight bulge to a reddish band. Go through this to a horizontal break, then climb rightwards until the higher break can be gained. Move back left to a crack in the roof - poor peg. Pull over the roof and quickly layback up to a good ledge and belay.
2) 5c, 37m. Make harder moves up left to gain a large niche. Weave up the wall heading for a sentry box. Exit it onto the slab - bold. Continue carefully up the wall. Go slightly left to a peg belay in a chimney.
3) 4c, 15m. Climb the unprotected arete and belay well back. © Rockfax
North Wales Rock Graded List , Ultimate E4 ticklist
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Grade: E4 5c ***
(Rhoscolyn)