Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 27 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Summer 2022

Birds have nested early and the restrictions are lifted for 2022 only.

 

A very important  sea- bird nesting area and seasonal restrictions apply to the whole crag. 

 

2 pitches. Take plenty of slings. This is a very spooky experience.
1. 28m 5b. Traverse out right along the higher quartzy line of weakness, taking care with the ropes. Belay securely beneath a small roof. This protects you from inevitable and dangerous debris.
2. 43m 5c. Climb up and left to the base of a groove; the commitment begins here. The way ahead is obvious, but there are many hazards en route. Proceed with as much caution and lightness of step as you can muster. Once past the big roof and into the final groove, the horror eases.

Malcolm Howells and Paul Trower, on-sight (1PA) May 1976. Second and FFA either by Dave Pearce and Pete Boardman, 1976..

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Ultimate E4 ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
mattnuttall 2 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Intimidating. Felt very uneasy leaving sanctuary of the belay as initially P2 was both vegetated and wet… pleased to have pushed on though. Gear better than expected. Final groove harder than expected. Horror would have eased earlier but had no gear left in middle sizes. Had gear, all the wrong gear. Great route. Would recommend with some caution.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Intimidating. Felt very uneasy leaving sanctuary of the belay as initially P2 was both vegetated and wet… pleased to have pushed on though. Gear better than expected. Final groove harder than expected. Horror would have eased earlier but had no gear left in middle sizes. Had gear, all the wrong gear. Great route. Would recommend with some caution.

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High E5
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High E3
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Votes cast 8
High 6a
Mid 6a
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High 5c
Mid 5c
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High 5b
Mid 5b
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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Hanging Out At Glastonbury

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Gogarth South Stack)

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