Dates: 1 February to 27 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Summer 2022
Birds have nested early and the restrictions are lifted for 2022 only.
A very important sea- bird nesting area and seasonal restrictions apply to the whole crag.
Rockfax Description
Slight but worth doing for the situation. Start from the promontory, at the base of the abseil, where the promontory abuts the crag at a large blunt spike.
1) 5b, 37m. Make a frightening traverse left from the spike to a groove that leads up to a tiny ledge. Climb the left arete of the groove above to another ledge. Shuffle left and head up and left past a peg to a detached flake. Gain the top of the flake by a semi-mantel move. Climb a line of weakness up and right to a small overlap. Step right into a niche below a steep crack. Follow the crack to a good ledge. Belay further back on a grassy ramp.
2) 4c, 20m. Climb up the grassy ramp to the shoulder and a junction with Deygo. Move up a slab rightwards to gain a groove and finish up this. © Rockfax
Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice , North Wales Rock Graded List , The Road to Shibboleth , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Target Routes 2019/2020 , May Trip Target List
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Gogarth South Stack)