Rockfax Description
Committing and a little loose. Start as for Puffin and Pantin.
1) 5b, 23m. Climb the corner to a foot ledge below a crack in the right wall. Move right and follow a hollow flake/crack with much trepidation. It becomes a sharp layback flake which leads up and right to a pinnacle. Drop down into Blood Chimney to belay.
2) 5c, 20m. Regain the pinnacle and climb the groove - reachy. Exit the groove rightwards and tackle the wide crack on the left and belay on a large flake. (Abseil point occasionally here.)
3) 5a, 15m. Move up and left over grassy ledges to climb a dirty crack on the left to join the top of Run Fast, Run Free. There may be a fixed abseil point. © Rockfax

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North Wales Rock Graded List

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User Date Notes
ian bryant 1 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Abseil in situ at top of 2nd pitch if you want to avoid the 'lower quality' rock and hairy last pitch. Or do the last pitch and abseil down run fast
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Abseil in situ at top of 2nd pitch if you want to avoid the 'lower quality' rock and hairy last pitch. Or do the last pitch and abseil down run fast

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Guidebooks for Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 30
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 27
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Strand

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)

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