Rockfax Description
An underrated route. Start on top of the square-cut block.
1) 5c, 40m. Climb the wall to a rest and good runners - take care to avoid rope drag. Step right into a sentry box and climb over the bulge into a groove above. Follow this boldly on slightly friable rock to a further tricky move. Trend left to a good belay ledge below a short steep wall and overhang.
2) 6a, 30m. Climb the steep wall above the left corner of the belay ledge into the overhanging crack. Follow this to a small ledge/break. Continue up the groove to the left of some bulges to reach a good belay ledge and large embedded flake/boulder.
3) 4b, 21m. Scramble up and climb the short green groove.Continue up grassy slopes and another groove to the top. This is the top pitch of Pentothal. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Soft touch at grade.
Originally called Crewcut when climbed by Doug Scott and Ray Gillies of Nottingham Climbers Club. This was a route eyed up by Pete Crew but he was beaten to it by Doug and Ray. Les Farrah and I were on the aproach to the climb when Crew and his rope buddy appeared and saw Doug and Ray already well up the route. "F***ing Scott" he shouted". In answer to Dougs name of the route when the official guide came out (edited by Crew) the route was renamed to expunge the slight to himself.
Gogarth Extreme Gems , North Wales Rock Graded List , James' 2015 Summer.
There is no feedback for this climb.
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: E4 5c ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)