Rockfax Description
A steep, committing climb on good rock, with one tricky move to start. Start beneath the groove of Big Gut immediately before the wall projects out and becomes very hard to traverse.
1) 5c, 15m. Drop down a few metres and traverse onto the front of the buttress. Bear rightwards up to a flake then make a descending traverse right to a stance and belay.
2) 5a, 10m. From the base of the chimney of Praetor (E1), move onto the right wall and ascend to a flake. Go up rightwards from this to a ledge and peg belay.
3) 5a, 15m. Go straight up then right to a ledge on the arete. Carry on to a second ledge, and from its left end pull over the bulge and ascend leftwards to a peg belay in the chimney.
4) 5a, 22m. Traverse left for three metres and pull onto a small slab and climb the steep crack above, moving right to finish up a small corner. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Best slab climbs of the UK , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist

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Guidebooks for Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 6
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Breaking the Barrier

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Holyhead Mountain)

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