Rockfax Description
A steep, committing climb on good rock, with one tricky move to start. Start beneath the groove of Big Gut immediately before the wall projects out and becomes very hard to traverse.
1) 5c, 15m. Drop down a few metres and traverse onto the front of the buttress. Bear rightwards up to a flake then make a descending traverse right to a stance and belay.
2) 5a, 10m. From the base of the chimney of Praetor (E1), move onto the right wall and ascend to a flake. Go up rightwards from this to a ledge and peg belay.
3) 5a, 15m. Go straight up then right to a ledge on the arete. Carry on to a second ledge, and from its left end pull over the bulge and ascend leftwards to a peg belay in the chimney.
4) 5a, 22m. Traverse left for three metres and pull onto a small slab and climb the steep crack above, moving right to finish up a small corner. © Rockfax
North Wales Rock Graded List , Best slab climbs of the UK , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Holyhead Mountain)