Rockfax Description
One of the top E5s in the UK. The pristine lower white wall has a thread which helps with route finding.
1) 6a, 30m. Climb up a short crack then break out left to gain wonderful pockets and pinches leading to a thread. Traverse left with difficulty, then up to gain the sentry box of Citadel and a no-hands rest. Climb up and right under the roof split by cracks. Arrange large cams and pull blindly over the roof on jams, undercuts and fins to easier ground. Belay on Main Wall.
2) 5c, 30m. Climb up then make a committing and exposed traverse right, aiming for a corner. Climb this to a ledge.
3) 5b, 15m. Climb cracks above the belay then step left to grooves which lead to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The pristine lower white wall has a thread in it, which helps with routefinding. Wear your shades if the sun is out!
1. 20m. 6a. Climb up a short crack then break out left to gain wonderful pockets and pinches leading to a thread. Traverse left with difficulty, then up to gain the sentry box of Citadel and a no-hands rest. Climb up and right under the roof, which is split by cracks. Arrange large cams and pull blindly over the roof on jams, undercuts and fins to easier ground.
2. 20m. 5c. Climb up above the belay then traverse rightwards, aiming for a corner. Climb up this to belay on a ledge.
3. 20m. 5a. Yawn, yawn, yawn. Make your way to the top of the cliff.
P.Littlejohn, C King. 8/6/78

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , North Wales Rock Graded List , Main Cliff Big E5s , Rob Greenwood's Top 5 E5 Routes in the UK , James' 2015 Summer. , Caff's 100 Ace E5s , Ultimate E5 ticklist , James' Summer Ticklist , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces

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High 6b
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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Dinosaur

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)

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