Restricted Access
Seals breed in Parliament House cave during the autumn months and climbers should take particular care not to disturb them during the time from late August to late October when the young seal pups can be eailsiy sepreated from their mothers with devastating consequences.
A large (huge!) rockfall occured at the back of Parliement House Cave in 2017 which affects some of the routes in the cave and further rockfalls are likley!
Rockfax Description
Excellent climbing but slightly overshadowed by its more famous neighbours. The main event is the crack-line parallel to P2 of Citadel. It has a harder crux but is not as sustained as that route. Start below small overhangs beneath a short corner.
1) 5c, 35m. Climb up to and through the overhang to a short corner. Climb this and swing out left - easier than it looks - then move up left to ledges (Sebastapol). Go up a short steep corner to a large sloping ledge below the Big Groove. Belay at the right-hand end of the ledge beneath a steep quartzy corner.
2) 6a, 25m. Climb the corner, then go right to the crack-line. Follow this to some ledges. Continue in the same line over some bulges then traverse right to the slab and belay of Citadel.
3) 4c, 35m. As for Citadel. Climb the groove above to join the traverse line of Cordon Bleau. Finish up this or make your way more directly over easy but loose ground to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Borderline E4/5. Excellent climbing, if slightly overshadowed by some more famous neighbours. The main event is the crack-line parallel to the second pitch of Citadel. This has a steeper, harder crux but is not as sustained as that route. Start just left of Citadel, below small overhangs beneath a short corner. .
1. 35m 5c. Up to and through the overhang to the short corner. Climb this and swing out left, easier than it looks, then move up left to ledges. Go up a short steep corner to a large sloping ledge (First belay, Big Groove). Belay at the right hand end of the ledge beneath a steep quartzy corner.
2. 20m 6a. Up the corner, then bear rightwards to the crackline. Follow this to some ledges. Continue in the same line over some bulges then traverse right to the slab and belay of Citadel.
3. 25m. Finish as for Citadel.
Alec Sharp and R.Toomer,1976
Ticklists
James' 2015 Summer. , Ultimate E4 ticklist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Steve Long | 11 May, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Both pitches felt hard, due to greasy conditions (it rained during the night - it takes the cracks longer to dry than the face routes hereabouts). Note: this is why there are so many reports of greasy conditions on GC, Citadel and Dinosaur; they can all require a day or two longer to dry than the face routes. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Both pitches felt hard, due to greasy conditions (it rained during the night - it takes the cracks longer to dry than the face routes hereabouts). Note: this is why there are so many reports of greasy conditions on GC, Citadel and Dinosaur; they can all require a day or two longer to dry than the face routes. |
||||
| Dan Arkle | 14 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Amazingly the tat on the crux held a decent fall! | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Amazingly the tat on the crux held a decent fall! |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
The Maze
Grade: E4 5c ***
(Gogarth South Stack)