Rockfax Description
A long girdle of this magnificent wall that takes in the atmosphere of the place at a friendly grade. The climbing is mostly straightforward apart from the wall on P3. Start by traversing below the Upper Tier then make a hair-raising descent down a vegetated rake to a small flake next to a slab above oblivion. You can abseil to this point from the bottom of Bezel.
1) 4a, 35m. Move onto the slab and follow the easy traverse line left and slightly down to the arete. Descend to a short chimney and belay on the ledge at its base.
2) 4b, 38m. Climb down and left to a massive flake and follow it below a tower and then back up the other side. Continue following the flake left past its apex. Belay here on Rat Race.
3) 5a, 40m. Make a tricky move up the steep wall to gain the slab. Then follow this left to below a groove (possible stance). Continue traversing left a to below a chimney/groove and ascend this to belay in a narrow corridor on the left.
4) 4b, 24m. Move through the corridor and turn right. Follow the easy ground up to a short groove, which leads to the top. © Rockfax
North Wales Rock Graded List , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , Best Mid Grade Sea Cliff Traverses , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , 2019 all-rounder Psyche list , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship.
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Heather Osborne | 21 Sep, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: We abbed into the start - would not scramble down to the start from Bezel, very loose steep ground. Found out afterward there have been accidents scrambling into the route as well (described as a means of approach in Rockfax) | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: We abbed into the start - would not scramble down to the start from Bezel, very loose steep ground. Found out afterward there have been accidents scrambling into the route as well (described as a means of approach in Rockfax) |
||||
Graeme Hammond | 5 Aug, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: A 25m abseil with a 50m rope directly round a block at the top of the slope seems to pull OK and get you to safe ground by the embedded flake. (No tat) | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: A 25m abseil with a 50m rope directly round a block at the top of the slope seems to pull OK and get you to safe ground by the embedded flake. (No tat) |
||||
James Morgan | 25 Apr, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: guide book as everyone else says is misleading. Start the first pitch by dropping below the belay point then traversing. So much lichen it actually needs a yard brush to clean. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: guide book as everyone else says is misleading. Start the first pitch by dropping below the belay point then traversing. So much lichen it actually needs a yard brush to clean. |
||||
Paul Sagar | 31 Jul, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax topo photo misleading: you don’t go up from the embedded flake, you drop down then traverse level before popping up over obvious rock feature you can see on the line of the arete | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Rockfax topo photo misleading: you don’t go up from the embedded flake, you drop down then traverse level before popping up over obvious rock feature you can see on the line of the arete |
||||
friendzone1234 | 21 Feb, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Defo rap in to the start | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Defo rap in to the start |
||||
friendzone1234 | 21 Feb, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Defo rap in to the start | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Defo rap in to the start |
||||
friendzone1234 | 21 Feb, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Defo rap in to the start | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Defo rap in to the start |
||||
friendzone1234 | 21 Feb, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Defo rap in to the start | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Defo rap in to the start |
||||
friendzone1234 | 21 Feb, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Defo rap in to the start | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Defo rap in to the start |
||||
friendzone1234 | 21 Feb, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Defo rap in to the start | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Defo rap in to the start |
||||
friendzone1234 | 21 Feb, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Defo rap in to the start | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Defo rap in to the start |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)