2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A superb and sustained line with a tricky first pitch and a great crack on the second. Start 10m left of the chimney of Mammoth.
1) 6b, 32m. Climb up and left across the lower wall to gain undercut flakes. Traverse right to the corner and small roof (good gear). Make a couple of desperate moves up and left to gain the sloping ledge. Good belay up and right.
2) 6a, 30m. Move up right to gain the crack and climb it with sustained interest to where the angle and rock colour change. Continue more easily to a small stance.
3) 4c, 35m. Climb the groove above to join the traverse line of Cordon Bleau. Finish up this or make your way more directly over easy but loose ground to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Magnificent with a hard crux. Yet another superb line, the sustained second pitch is one of the finest at Gogarth. One short section on the first pitch is hard to on-sight, the route would be E4 6a with one point of aid here, and arguably more balanced in this form. Start 2m left of Hunger, about 12m left of the chimney of Mammoth Direct, directly beneath a line of undercut flakes.
1. 40m. 6b. Climb straight up, then bear left with more difficulty to the start of the undercut flakes. Traverse right following the flakes to a niche. Swing out left and somehow climb the leaning wall (antique inverted knifeblade) to gain a sloping shelf. Climb up and right much more easily to a long ledge below the impressive gently overhanging crack.
2. 35m. 6a. Climb the short steep wall then a move right gains the crack proper. Up this, past ancient iron (and aluminium) -mongery, finally reaching a welcome slab.
3. 25m. Easily up the groove to a good ledge and belay on the large blocks on the left. Alpine off.
Jack Street and G Hibberd (9 pts aid) 1968. FFA Ron Fawcett 1977.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , North Wales Rock Graded List , Main Cliff Big E5s , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , James' 2015 Summer. , Caff's 100 Ace E5s , Ultimate E5 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , James' Summer Ticklist , Welsh climbs to last a lifetime

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User Date Notes
Si Witcher 24 Nov, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: 1x drilled/glued runner added to pitch 1 crux, to replace previous old hammered peg circa 2019.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 1x drilled/glued runner added to pitch 1 crux, to replace previous old hammered peg circa 2019.
Steve Long 27 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: I've climbed this previously both with and without the original piton. I was previously critical of the replacement peg, but having climbed it subsequently I think it has restored the route to its prime condition and allows the second to enjoy free climbing it instead of worrying about swinging into space if you fluff the crux (unclip the peg AFTER latching the jug).
Show beta
βeta: I've climbed this previously both with and without the original piton. I was previously critical of the replacement peg, but having climbed it subsequently I think it has restored the route to its prime condition and allows the second to enjoy free climbing it instead of worrying about swinging into space if you fluff the crux (unclip the peg AFTER latching the jug).
accynez 6 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Brand new cemented in stainless steel peg on the crux.
Show beta
βeta: Brand new cemented in stainless steel peg on the crux.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff

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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 19
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 18
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Sebastopol

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)

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