37m.

Rockfax Description
Brilliant climbing up the centre of the wall. Sadly the original peg disappeared and has been replaced with a bolt which has changed the character of this route. Climb up to a pocket then go up and left and back right to gain some more pockets. Follow these and a thin crack to an overlap and old pegs. Step right to good holds and the top. Benefits from a good brushing first. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Brilliant climbing up the centre of the wall. The crucial peg was replaced in 2019. After the crux the route blasts direct up the rest of the wall to two decaying pegs where a move right brings good holds and the top. Benefits from a good brushing first.

J Moran, A Evans 1978. FFA J Redhead 6/7/1980. Reclimbed sans peg by Craig Smith, 2003.

Ticklists

Great Wall Climbs of the UK , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff , Four years of university hit list , Post Quarantine Blowout , Welsh climbs to last a lifetime

Feedback

User Date Notes
Si Witcher 24 Nov, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: 1x drilled/glued runner in place on crux as of 2019. This replaces previous peg which was also drilled apparently, but not glued. F7b?
Show beta
βeta: 1x drilled/glued runner in place on crux as of 2019. This replaces previous peg which was also drilled apparently, but not glued. F7b?
tintinandpip 30 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Originally did it on sight in the early 90’s with Cooksey, the peg was tied off with troll rainbow tat, happy to flash it again today. Superb
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Originally did it on sight in the early 90’s with Cooksey, the peg was tied off with troll rainbow tat, happy to flash it again today. Superb
Alex Mason 10 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Lower-off in place, probs 2018/19.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lower-off in place, probs 2018/19.
Alex Mason 10 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Lower-off in place, probs 2018/19.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lower-off in place, probs 2018/19.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff

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Voting
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 11
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Death Trap Direct

Grade: E6 5c ***
(Gogarth South Stack)

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