Restricted Access
There have been serious problems here in the past but access appears less problematic providing climbers keep a low profile. The quarries are owned by Gwynedd Council who make it clear that there is no offical access due to public safety reasons - there are high fences and signs prohibiting access, but there have not been any reports of practical access problems for many years.
In early 2017 planning permisson was granted for a new hydro-electric power station on the site. When works starts on this (unkknow time-scale) its likley that access to some of the quarries will be permenently lost, especially to Mancer and Film Set Quarries as these will become flooded to produce a holding reservoir.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
- Due to nesting Peregrines and Choughs (both species have legal protection under the Wildlife & Countryside Act), some climbing in the Gideon Quarry (all routes on Gideon Terrace and Cracking up areas) is restricted from March 1st until the end of June.
Rockfax Description
An outrageously good route up the well-protected overhanging horizontal crack, connecting two run-out slabs. The end of the crux has big fall potential, but it is into clean air - with a soft catch the swing into the side-wall should be manageable. Climb the left side of the slab past a 5c rockover - a low runner on the right won't keep you off the ground, but will stop you from going down the slope. Continue up to some microwires at 8m. At the top of the slab, arrange bomber gear as far left as you can before launching out across the overhanging wall - a brilliant sequence of powerful moves. The upper slab leads to a bolted abseil station. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
An outrageously good route which climbs the well-protected overhanging horizontal crack connecting two run-out slabs. The end of the crux has big fall potential but it's into clean air, and with a soft catch the swing into the side wall should be ok. Grade uncertain - it's somewhere between E5 6b - E6 6c
Pete Harrison 29/Jun/2010.
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Gideon Quarries
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Aftershock
Grade: E6 6b ***
(Gallt Yr Ogof)