Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

2023 26th February update: The Ravens do not appear to be using the existing nest in Gardoms Unconquerable - however one more check will be made in case they are late starting, so please be observant and report any sightings if you are in the area.

In recent years a Tawny Owl has nested in the Layback Crack/Flake Crack.area - it is not known if they are present in 2023 but please keep your eyes and ears out if climbing in this area.

 

18m.

Rockfax Description
The left-hand arete of the buttress is excellent and mild. Climb the central crack and make a short traverse left to the arete on the lowest break. This is then followed throughout with good runners in the breaks and lovely positions. Very photogenic. © Rockfax

FA. David Penlington 1952.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , 100 More Classic British VS Climbs , Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Chatsworth to Bamford , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , On Peak Rock , Consolidation and developmental path to VS , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , The Gritlist , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , Innominata Mountain Club 30th Anniversary Peak District List , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

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User Date Notes
Amberrosebrown 28 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Amazing route! Anna’s first VS lead with amazing sunset views
βeta?
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βeta: Amazing route! Anna’s first VS lead with amazing sunset views
Amberrosebrown 21 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant route! Loved it!!
βeta?
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βeta: Brilliant route! Loved it!!
Iain Thow 17 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: As everyone says, just lovely. Great position, comfortable jams, friction, high posing factor.
βeta?
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βeta: As everyone says, just lovely. Great position, comfortable jams, friction, high posing factor.
Rampikino 12 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Contrived and eliminate?? That couldn't be further from the truth. The line is perfect, natural and in a wonderful position. The climbing is excellent. Deserves the 3 stars and miserable grumps should stay away. LOL
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Contrived and eliminate?? That couldn't be further from the truth. The line is perfect, natural and in a wonderful position. The climbing is excellent. Deserves the 3 stars and miserable grumps should stay away. LOL
TobyA 6 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Rather contrived and eliminate. Worth maybe 1* in my book.
βeta?
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βeta: Rather contrived and eliminate. Worth maybe 1* in my book.
Si dH 16 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Definitely best to traverse in the first break, not higher up. I say the grade is fair enough, possibly 4c. Very nice!
βeta?
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βeta: Definitely best to traverse in the first break, not higher up. I say the grade is fair enough, possibly 4c. Very nice!
slacky 19 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Simply perfect, good gear, yet nice exposure :D
βeta?
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βeta: Simply perfect, good gear, yet nice exposure :D
Monk 15 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: i didn't find this easy for VS but it was my first VS after a layoff due to injury so I could be wrong. The middle section is superb.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: i didn't find this easy for VS but it was my first VS after a layoff due to injury so I could be wrong. The middle section is superb.
Monk 15 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: i didn't find this easy for VS but it was my first VS after a layoff due to injury so I could be wrong. The middle section is superb.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: i didn't find this easy for VS but it was my first VS after a layoff due to injury so I could be wrong. The middle section is superb.
Simon Caldwell 4 Aug, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Just read a couple of old guidebooks, 1970 and 1981, both have this route traversing left at 8 feet, ie below the flake of Apple Crack. Tried this yesterday, much harder, at least 4c, but with gear above the head.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Just read a couple of old guidebooks, 1970 and 1981, both have this route traversing left at 8 feet, ie below the flake of Apple Crack. Tried this yesterday, much harder, at least 4c, but with gear above the head.
Nick Smith - Climbers 15 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: It's much easier to walk along the top of the crag at Gardom's - too much like hard work to scramble along the bottom between the buttresses!
βeta?
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βeta: It's much easier to walk along the top of the crag at Gardom's - too much like hard work to scramble along the bottom between the buttresses!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Gardom's Edge

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 274
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 255
Votes cast 261
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Eureka

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Kinder Northern Edges)

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