Rockfax Description
A fantastic multi-pitch line. The first four pitches are average, but after these the rock improves. A 70m rope is needed if a retreat down the route is necessary. Start right of the short 6c arete (Farenheight on Poema de Roca sector).
1) 4b, 18m. Climb the chossy corner with care.
2) 5a, 30m. A steep pitch on good quality sharp rock.
3) 6c, 20m. A desperate move past the first bolt gives probably the hardest move on the route - the rest of the pitch is easier.
4) 6c+, 30m. An easy but chossy start leads into a flowstone section as you come alongside the cave.
5) 7a, 12m. Technical prickly orange rock leads to a mantelshelf and then a crack through a roof.
6) 6a+, 22m. Technical climbing on good pocketed rock.
7) 5b, 25m. The slab. A very enjoyable pitch on great rock.
8) 6b, 25m. A warm-up for the pitch to come; exposed open wall climbing on pockets and cracks, with a hard move to finish.
9) 6c+, 25m. Head up the slab to a steepening. Make an exposed traverse right and finish up the corner. A tremendous pitch.
10) 6a, 30m. The cracked slab to finish on a rocky flat spot.
11) 3a, 30m. Scramble up taking care with the rock.
12) 3a. 35m. More scrambling leads to the top. © Rockfax
Bernabe’s favourite , El Chorro Recommendations
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Grade: 7a ***
(Lower Gorge)